Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [220]
By the time the Inlandsbanan was inaugurated, however, a serious competitor to the train – the car – was already making an impact on Sweden. Railway lines soon closed in many parts of the country. Proposals to close even larger stretches of the Inlandsbanan led to strong protests, not only from the regions directly affected but from all over Sweden. The Inlandsbanan north of Mora is still operating today largely as a result of the popular support it received in the face of closure.
If you’d like to know more about the history of the Inlandsbanan and the people who made it happen, visit the Inlandsbanan Museum in Sorsele or the railway museum in Jamtli in Östersund.
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Berggrenska gården (10 50 10; Kyrkogatan 14) is the only remaining early-19th-century commercial courtyard in Gävle. It’s now home to artists’ studios and galleries, which are open to the public (Thursday to Saturday), and a central bakery and coffeeshop. The nearby rådhus (town hall) wasn’t so lucky – its present appearance is post-1869, but a town hall has stood on the site since 1628.
The oldest of the churches in Gävle is the Heliga Trefaldighets kyrka at the western end of Drottninggatan; it has an 11th-century rune stone inside. The buildings of the castle on the southern bank of Gävleån are now in administrative use, but there are temporary art exhibitions here and a small prison museum (65 44 30; noon-4pm Wed-Sun, daily Jul-Aug, tours by appointment).
From mid-June to mid-August daily boat tours (adult/child Skr40/25 each way) run from Södra Skeppsbron to the island of Limön, part of the surrounding archipelago. The island has a nature trail, mass grave and memorial to the sailors of a ship that was lost here in the early 1800s.
Bönan, 13km northeast of town, is a pretty waterside settlement that’s also worth a look; attractions include a fish smokehouse and restaurant. Bus 95 runs out here (Skr35, one hour).
The national rail museum, Järnvägsmuseet (14 46 15; Rälsgatan; adult/child Skr40/free; 10am-4pm Tue-Sun, daily Jun-Aug), has old steam trains and carriages you can climb onto and pretend to drive. It’s 2km south of the town centre, off Österbågen.
There’s been a circus on the site of Furuvik (17 73 00; www.furuvik.se; adult/child Skr155/125, ride coupons Skr15, armband Skr175; 31 May–mid-Aug) for aeons. This entertainment zone, which now incorporates a leisure park and zoo about 12km southeast of Gävle, aims to provide a little of everything; you can act like a monkey on the amusement rides and then see the real thing at the ape enclosure. From the train station, take the frequent bus 838.
For grown-ups, there’s whisky-tasting (three types Skr125) at Mackmyra Svensk Whisky (13 29 79; www.mackmyra.se, in Swedish; Bruksgatan 4, Valbo; tours 1.30pm Wed-Sun Jun-Aug), established in 1999 as the first Scandinavian malt whisky distillery. It’s set in a historic bruk (works) about 10km west of Gävle; tours (Skr125) must be booked in advance, via the website, or ask for help at the tourist office.
Sleeping
STF Vandrarhem Gamla Gefle (62 17 45; stf.vandrarhem@telia.com; Södra Rådmansgatan 1; dm from Skr160, s/d Skr305/400; reception 8-10am & 4.30-7pm summer, 8-10am & 5-7pm winter) Set in one of Gamla Gefle’s old-style wooden buildings around a pleasant courtyard, this place is very quiet but a mere block from the busy street Södra Kungsgatan. Bike hire is available, as is breakfast, and there’s a good kitchen.
Pension Engeltofta (996 60; engeltofta@swipnet.se; Bönavägen 118; r from Skr550; Jun-Aug; ) This historic building, once an STF hostel, has freshly renovated guesthouse rooms with shared bathrooms in a lovely park setting by the sea, about