Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [223]
Skärså, an ideal cycling destination 12km north of Söderhamn, is one of the most beautiful fishing villages in the area. The picturesque red-painted buildings include old boat sheds, summer houses, a museum (10am-9pm Jun-Aug) and a good cafe, Albertina (opposite). There’s also a takeaway fish shop. Bus 65 goes to Skärså (four daily, weekdays only).
The granite walls of Trönö Gamla Kyrka (May-Sep), about 15km northwest of town on Rd 50, have been left virtually untouched over the years – it’s just been added onto, so the oldest part of the church, dating from the 13th century, is still intact. There’s a free-standing wooden bell tower and a well-preserved wooden roofed wall surrounding the church. Take bus 67 (Skr35, several daily).
Sleeping & Eating
Kalles Gatukök, opposite Mousquet, is one of about a zillion handy fast-food outlets; diners are ever fickle, and at the time of research the mirror-image gatukök (literally ‘street kitchen’) at the opposite end of Köpmangatan was getting steadier crowds. Follow your nose.
Mohed Natura Camping (42 52 33; www.mohedscamping.se; Mohedsvägen 59; sites Skr100, dm from Skr130, cabins Skr250-575; ) This very busy lakeside spot, 11km west of Söderhamn, is a well-equipped camping ground that cohabits with the spotless STF Vandrarhem in what looks like an antique school building. You can rent bikes and boats here. Bus 63 and 100 run frequently to Mohed from Söderhamn.
First Hotel Statt (735 70; Oxtorgsgatan 17; r/tr from Skr1070/1350; ) All the rooms at this elegant hotel have a view, either on the back garden or facing the town hall square; there’s a piano museum inside the hotel, and spa packages are available. Ask about the occasional ‘stay free – if you dare’ deals on one room that’s supposedly haunted by an 1880s barman.
Albertina (320 10; mains Skr75-150; lunch & dinner until 10pm) Perched over the water in Skärså, with harbour views, this is the nicest place to eat in the area. The menu includes lots of herring and salmon, plus meals for those who aren’t fish-lovers. There’s a tiny fishing museum attached.
Getting There & Away
Buses and trains leave from Resecentrum, at the train station. Ybuss runs daily to Östersund (Skr235, 4½ hours, twice daily), Stockholm (Skr235, three to four hours, several daily), Umeå (Skr320, five hours, three daily) and Uppsala (Skr235, two to three hours, several daily).
SJ trains run daily to Hudiksvall (Skr95, 30 minutes, twice daily), Sundsvall (Skr116, one to two hours, four daily), Härnösand (Skr173, two hours, once daily), Gävle (Skr68, one hour, three to five daily) and Stockholm (Skr573, two to three hours, several daily).
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JÄRVSÖ & AROUND
0651 / pop 1900
As if arranged specifically to show off the pretty wooden houses of Hälsingland, Järvsö and its surrounding homesteads may leave photographers (and those travelling with them) a little crazed. The sleepy village sits at the northern end of a string of lakes that extends from the Bothnian coast at Ljusne, just south of Söderhamn. The lovely buildings scattered up and down the river valley are worth going out of your way to see.
There’s a tourist office (403 06; Turistvägen 29; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri rest of year) on the appropriately named main road through town, as well as banks, cafes and supermarkets.
Sights
A 3km boardwalk guides visitors through Järvzoo (411 25; adult/child/under 5yr Skr160/90/free; 10am-5pm Jun-Aug, 10am-3pm rest of year), a well-stocked zoo full of birds and animals from Hälsingland in relatively natural environments – you’ll see bears, lynxes, honey buzzards, snowy owls and wolverines, among others.
Completed in 1838,