Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [237]
Stroll around Samegården Click here in Kiruna
Shop for crafts at Fatmomakke
Wander around the huts at Lappstaden
Hike to Atoklimpen from Tärnaby
Hike the Paddus trail Click here from Abisko
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Statens Järnväg (Swedish Railways; SJ; 0771-75 75 75; www.sj.se) trains go from Stockholm, Göteborg and Västerås to Umeå, Luleå, Kiruna and Abisko.
Veolia Transport (0771-26 00 00; www.connex.se) runs overnight trains from Stockholm to Luleå and Abisko.
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VÄSTERBOTTEN
UMEÅ
090 / pop 112,000
With the vibrant feel of a college town (it has around 30,000 students), Umeå is a welcome outpost of urbanity in the barren north. It’s one of the fastest-growing towns in Sweden and an agreeable place in which to hang out, wind down or stock up for an outdoor adventure.
Umeå is also widely considered the most ‘metal’ town in Sweden, thanks to its thriving metal and straight-edge music scene. Legendary hardcore band Refused started here, and an annual music festival, House of Metal (www.houseofmetal.se, in Swedish), takes place at Folkets Hus in early February – the darkest time of the year, of course.
Information
Forex (Renmarkstorget) Near the tourist office.
Library (Rådhusesplanaden 6A; 11am-7pm Mon-Thu, 11am-5pm Fri, 11am-3pm Sat) Internet access.
Naturkompaniet (Rådhusesplanaden 7) Sells outdoor gear.
Tourist office (16 16 16; www.visitumea.se; Renmarkstorget 15; 8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, noon-4pm Sun Jun–mid-Aug; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat mid-Aug–Sep; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri Oct-Apr) Located on a central square.
Sights & Activities
Don’t miss Gammlia (17 18 00; admission free; 10am-5pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug; 10am-4pm Tue-Fri, noon-4pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun rest of year), a cluster of museums 1km east of the town centre. They include cultural and historical exhibits and Sami collections at the regional Västerbottens Museum; the modern art museum, Bildmuseet; and the Maritime Museum. These are surrounded by Friluftsmuseet, an open-air historic village where staff wear period clothes and describe traditional homestead life.
The walking path Tavelsjöleden stretches 39km from Umeå north to Torrberget, through all kinds of terrain and with some stunning views. The trail begins at Regementet, north of Umeå city centre. The first 5km segment to Hamptjärnsberget ends at an excellent viewpoint with a picnic area, but if you have transport it’s nicer to start here, avoiding the urbanised first bit of the hike and starting with the 10km walk to Hissjö. The trail mostly parallels Rd 363, so on–off points are frequent, and Länstrafiken bus 16 navigates Rd 363 several times daily.
Ask for maps at Umeå tourist office or call Umeå Fritid (16 16 00). Walkers and paddlers should pick up the useful pamphlet Paddling & Hiking in the Umeå Region at the tourist office.
Holmön, known as the sunniest place in Sweden, is a 15km-long offshore island with a boat museum (552 20; adult/child Skr20/free; mid-Jun–mid-Aug) and a collection of traditional craft, plus a good quayside restaurant and swimming beaches. In July there’s a row-boat race to Finland, which is only 36km away. Ferries (www.holmon.com) depart two to three times daily from Norrfjärden (check the website for timetables), 26km northeast of Umeå; take bus 118 or 119 (Skr45). If the sea freezes in winter, you can take a snowmobile or hydrocopter across the ice.
The island of Norrbyskär, 40km south of Umeå, is another worthwhile destination. A sawmill community was built up here from nothing in less than 10 years, only to disappear just as suddenly 10 years later. A museum describes the life of the sawmill workers. Buses run to and from Umeå to Norrbyn, to connect with ferries – enquire at the tourist office for times.
Sleeping
STF Vandrarhem Umeå (77 16 50; info@umeavandrarhem.com; Västra Esplanaden 10; dm Skr140, s/d from Skr240/280; ) Rooms are tiny but comfortable at this busy and efficient youth hostel, one of the few in the region that’s actually occupied by youth. It’s in a great location: