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Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [239]

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the bonus of a pedestrianised town centre nearby.

The tourist office (73 60 20; www.skelleftea.se; Trädgårdsgatan 7; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat, noon-3pm Sun mid-Jun–Aug, Mon-Fri Sep–mid-Jun) is in the town centre, on the corner of the pedestrianised Nygatan and the central square. It has a computer with internet access (Skr20 for 15 minutes) and helps arrange accommodation for a fee. Banks are along Nygatan.

The huge, industrial-chic Stadsbibliotek (73 61 00; Viktoriaplatsen; Mon-Fri), in the eastern part of the town centre (follow Kanalgatan east), has free internet access and a gallery-cafe where you can sample Västerbotten cheese for Skr10.

Sights & Activities

A pleasant walk along the river west of the town centre takes you to Nordanå park, a well-preserved historic precinct that’s home to the cultural and historical collections of the Skellefteå Museum (73 55 10; www.skellefteamuseum.se; admission free; noon-4pm Tue-Sun) and several old houses, some of which contain handicraft shops. The path continues as a pleasant 10km loop that crosses the river before returning to the town centre – great for joggers and cyclists.

Just west of Nordanå is Bonnstan, a church village with 392 wooden houses built between 1830 and 1940, many of them still inhabited in summer.

Continuing west, you reach a footbridge to the small island of Kyrkholmen, and the nearby early-16th-century Skellefteå Landsförsamling Kyrka (78 79 00; www.svenskakyrkan.se/skelleftelands; 10am-4pm Mon-Fri). The neoclassical church in its current incarnation dates from 1800, but its sacristy is from 1507 and inside is a 13th-century wooden Madonna. An adjacent tithe storehouse dates from 1674. Jumping off the footbridge in hot weather is not strictly endorsed, but it’s certainly not unheard of.

Continue west and you’ll come to the pretty Lejonströmsbron, Sweden’s longest wooden bridge, built during the year 1737. Crossing it is a fun experiment in vehicle-pedestrian compromise.

About 35km west of Skellefteå is a gold-mine museum, Bergrum Boliden (58 00 60; adult/child Skr20/10; 10am-4pm Jun-Aug), with interesting multimedia displays covering geology and mining. Take bus 204 or 205 to get here.

Lövånger, 50km south of the town by the E4, has a pretty medieval church with separate bell tower, and a well-preserved church village that now houses an excellent STF hostel. Some houses have doors big enough to admit a horse and carriage, as well as the church-goers. Buses run roughly hourly from Skellefteå.

Sleeping

Skellefteå Camping & Stugby (188 55; sites low/high season Skr100/170, 2-bed chalets Skr550/625) At the foot of the Vitberg ski hill, this large camping ground has all manner of huts, cabins, tent sites, RV spots and so on; it’s great for families. There’s free internet access and a small shop at reception.

Stiftsgården (72 57 00; www.stiftsgarden.se; Brännvägen 25; dm Skr230, s from Skr280, hotel-standard s/d from Skr750/1100) Behind Landsförsamling church on Brännavägen, this church-run place spread across green fields near a cemetery is home to a hotel and, in an annex, Skellefteå’s STF hostel. The cute whitewashed rooms are simple and comfortable. In the hotel they include full bathrooms, desks and TVs. Reception keeps short hours, especially in summer, so book ahead and call to make arrangements if you’ll be arriving after 4pm.

Hotel & Café Viktoria (174 70; Trädgårdsgatan 8; s/d Skr840/1030, discounted to Skr550/695; ) Across the street from the tourist office, this place offers simple but more than adequate rooms in a small hotel above a cafe. Steep summer discounts add to the appeal. Parking costs Skr50 overnight.

Eating & Drinking

There’s no shortage of grill-bars and cafes along Nygatan and around the main square, as well as on the busier Kanalgatan.

Kyrkholmen Cafe (78 79 35; waffles Skr35; 11am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug) Across the footbridge to the small island Kyrkholmen is a tiny summer cafe in a nicely preserved old building; coffee and waffles are the speciality but there are also sandwiches and other

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