Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [245]
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THE ICE HOTEL
Every winter at Jukkasjärvi, 18km east of Kiruna, the amazing Ice Hotel (www.icehotel.com) is built from hundreds of tonnes of ice taken from the frozen local river. This custom-built ‘igloo’ has a chapel (popular for weddings – giving new meaning to the expression ‘cold feet’!) and a bar – you can drink from a glass made of ice – and ice-sculpture exhibitions. It also has 50 ‘hotel rooms’ outfitted with reindeer skins and sleeping bags guaranteed to keep you warm despite the −5°C temperatures (and in winter that’s nothing – outside the hotel it can be as low as −30°C).
Staff can arrange numerous pursuits such as snowmobile safaris, skiing, ice-fishing and dogsledding.
Even after the Ice Hotel has melted away in summer, visitors can still experience a little of the magic. Inside a giant freezer warehouse, called the Ice Hotel Art Center, at a temperature of −5°C, there are a few of the Ice Hotel features: a bar, ice sculptures and guest igloos.
Rooms in the ice hotel in winter cost from Skr2600/2700 per single/double room. There are also stylish hotel rooms (heated – and not made of ice); three-bed cabins with skylights, enabling you to watch the northern lights in winter; and chalets (with kitchen) sleeping up to four. These are all available year-round – summer prices are quite reasonable (Skr870/1050). See the website for more details and a list of seasonal rates.
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ESRANGE
Some 23km further out is the space base Esrange, a facility where scientists research outer space as well as atmospheric phenomena like the northern lights. Detailed four-hour tours (adult/child Skr390/200) of the facility are offered to enthusiasts in summer, but must be arranged in advance; enquire at the Kiruna tourist office. There’s no public transport; taxi fare should be around Skr500.
Sleeping
Rådhusbyn Ripan Hotell & Camping (630 00; www.ripan.se; Campingvägen 5; sites Skr125, hotel s/d from Skr1200/1535, discounted to Skr795/920, cabins from Skr995; ) In the northern part of town, this large and well-equipped camping ground has hotel-standard chalets in addition to its caravan and tent sites. Ask about the organised walk to Samegården, the museum of Sami culture (Skr450, 1pm Friday), and other activities.
SVIF Yellow House (137 50; www.yellowhouse.nu; Hantverkaregatan 25; dm from Skr150, s/d Skr300/400) The SVIF hostel also has budget hotel rooms; the excellent facilities include a sauna, kitchen and laundry, a TV in each room, and a pretty, quiet enclosed garden.
STF Vandrarhem/Hotell City (hostel 171 95, hotel 666 55; Bergmästaregatan 7; dm/s/d from Skr160/320/400, hotel s/d Skr650/700) This central hostel has good facilities right next to the wooden church; it’s run in conjunction with the new low-budget hotel at the same address.
Hotel Vinterpalatset (677 70; www.vinterpalatset.se; Järnvägsgatan 18; s/d from Skr720/930, discounted to Skr660/790; ) Inside this dark-brown wooden building near the train station are pretty, spacious B&B rooms, each with a TV and modern bathroom, plus an upstairs lounge and a breakfast room almost flowery enough to make you think you’re in the Cotswolds. The decadent breakfast includes cured salmon and roast game.
Eating & Drinking
Café Safari (174 60; Geologsgatan 4; meals Skr35-65) This is the nicest cafe in town – a long skinny room with good coffee and cakes, plus light meals such as sandwiches, quiche and baked potatoes.
Brända Tomten (101 09; Föreningsgatan 6; meals Skr35-65) In the city centre, this casual cafe and fast-food joint serves surprisingly good coffee and filling lunch items – layered sandwiches, salads, pies and so on. Big windows make for fun people-watching.
Camp Ripan Restaurang (Campingv