Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [250]
Stop by Sami Duodji (128 94; Porjusvägen 4; 9am-3pm) to browse and shop for authentic Sami handicraft.
The squat red wooden church (Storgatan; Jun-Aug) is worth a visit; it’s from 1976 but was built in the style of its predecessor of 1607. The colour scheme is inspired by Sami clothing.
Jokkmokks Fjällträdgård (adult/child Skr25/free), by the lake, introduces mountain trees and other local flora, and there’s a homestead museum just across the road. A marked path around the lake features information boards about local wildlife.
The tourist office has a brochure about outdoor adventure tours available in the area, from fly-fishing to berry picking.
AROUND JOKKMOKK
Tiny Kvikkjokk (Huhttán), around 100km west of Jokkmokk, is on the Kungsleden and Padjelantaleden (Click here). Several fantastic day walks start from the village, including climbs to the mountain Snjerak (809m; three hours return) and a steeper ascent of Prinskullen (749m; three hours return). Follow signs to a car park at the top of the hill to catch the trail; if you instead continue straight ahead until the road ends, you’ll find another car park and the STF Fjällstation (late Jun-Aug), where you can get information and brochures.
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SAMI CULTURE & TRADITIONS
Sami life was originally based on hunting and fishing, but at some point during the 16th century the majority of reindeer were domesticated and the hunting economy transformed into a nomadic herding economy. While reindeer still figure prominently in Sami life, only about 16% of the Sami people are still directly involved in reindeer herding and transport by reindeer sled, and only a handful of traditionalists continue to lead a truly nomadic lifestyle.
A major identifying element of Sami culture is the joik (or yoik). This is a rhythmic poem composed for a specific person to describe their innate nature, and is considered to be owned by the person it describes. Other traditional elements of the culture include the use of folk medicine, shamanism, artistic pursuits (especially woodcarving and silversmithing) and striving for ecological harmony.
The Sami national dress is the only genuine folk dress that’s still in casual use in Sweden, and you’ll readily see it on the streets of Jokkmokk, especially during the winter fair. Each district has its own distinct fashion, many of which are displayed at Jokkmokk’s Ájtte Museum (opposite).
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The best hiking in this area, at least for experienced and well-kitted trekkers, is in Sarek National Park (0920-962 00). Full of sharp peaks and huge glaciers, its largest valley, Rapadalen, is lush with birch and willow trees. The Kungsleden trail dips briefly into Sarek, at the southeastern corner of the park. Trekking here is certainly not for the casual walker, and hikers must be prepared for very rugged conditions. Major trails are often washed out or in poor repair, and the extremes of terrain make for volatile weather conditions. There are no tourist facilities within the park, so be sure to check with an STF lodge or the National Park office before setting out. For more information on hiking in these regions Click here.
Sleeping & Eating
STF Vandrarhem Åsgård (559 77; asgard@jokkmokk-hostel.com; Åsgatan 20; dm Skr125-160; reception 8-10am & 5-8pm; ) The STF hostel has a lovely setting among green lawns and trees, right near the tourist office; it’s a comfortable place with numerous bunk beds, a kitchen, a TV lounge, showers in the basement and a computer with internet access (Skr10 per 15 minutes, when reception is open).