Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [35]
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CANOEING & KAYAKING
Sweden is a real paradise for canoeists and kayakers (canoes are more common). The national canoeing body is Svenska Kanotförbundet (Swedish Canoe Federation; 0155-20 90 80; www.kanot.com). It provides general advice and produces Kanotvåg, a free, annual brochure listing 75 approved canoe centres that hire out canoes (for around Skr300/1500 per day/week).
According to the right of common access, canoeists may paddle or moor virtually anywhere provided they respect the privacy of others and avoid sensitive nesting areas. More information is available on the internet at www.kanotguiden.com.
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SKIING
Large ski resorts cater mainly to downhill (alpine and telemark) skiing and snowboarding, but there’s also scope for cross-country skiing. For resort reviews in English, visit www.goski.com and www.thealps.com. SkiStar (www.skistar.com) manages two of the largest places, Sälen and Åre, and has good information on its website.
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The ski resort of Åre hosts loads of cool events; check www.skistar.com for the latest.
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Cross-country (nordic) skiing opportunities vary, but the northwest usually has plenty of snow from December to April (but not much daylight in December and January). Kungsleden and other long-distance tracks provide great skiing. Practically all town areas (except those in the far south) have marked and often illuminated skiing tracks.
The southernmost large resort in Sweden, Sälen (Dalarna), appeals particularly to families, as does Idre, a little further north. Åre, in Jämtland, is great for long downhill runs (over 1000m descent) and cross-country routes, and is the main party place for young skiers. Nearby ski areas at Duved and Storlien are also good and less crowded. In Lappland, Hemavan gets fairly busy with spring skiers, and there are plans to expand the small ski hill next door at Tärnaby. Riksgränsen (at the border with Norway on the E10 Kiruna–Narvik road) is the world’s northernmost ski resort, and offers interesting options – including heli-skiing and alpine ski touring – from mid-February until late June. Downhill runs at Riksgränsen aren’t suitable for beginners.
Take the usual precautions: don’t leave marked routes without emergency food, a good map, local advice and proper equipment including a bivouac bag. Temperatures of −30°C or lower (including wind-chill factor) are possible, so check the daily forecasts. Police and tourist offices have information on local warnings. In mountain ski resorts, where there’s a risk of avalanche (lavin), susceptible areas are marked by yellow, multilingual signs and buried-skier symbols. Make sure your travel insurance covers skiing.
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Even if you’re visiting in winter, bring a good pair of sunglasses to protect your eyes from glare of snowy surfaces.
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BOATING & SAILING
Boating and sailing are hugely popular in Sweden. The 7000km-long coastline, with its 60,000 islands, is a sailor’s paradise, but look out for the few restricted military areas off the east coast.
Inland, lakes and canals offer pleasant sailing in spring and summer (the canals are generally open for limited seasons). The main canals are the Göta Canal (see boxed text), the Kinda Canal and the Dalsland Canal. Various companies offer short canal cruises; contact local tourist offices for details. Steamboats and cruisers ply the shores of lakes Vättern and Vänern: see individual town sections for details.
Those with private boats will have to pay lock fees and guest harbour fees (around Skr150 per night, although some small places are free). A useful guide is the free, annual Gästhamnsguiden,