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Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [42]

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wing survived and was incorporated into the new palace, but its medieval designs are now concealed by a baroque exterior. The new palace, designed by the court architect Nicodemus Tessin the Younger, took 57 years to complete. With 608 rooms, it’s the world’s largest royal castle still used for its original purpose.

The sumptuous state apartments, including the Hall of State and the Apartments of the Royal Orders of Chivalry, are both open to the public (except during state functions, most of which happen in September), with two floors of royal pomp, 18th- and 19th-century furnishings, and portraits of pale princes and princesses. Look for Queen Kristina’s silver throne in the Hall of State and for the decadent Karl XI Gallery, inspired by Versailles’ Hall of Mirrors and considered the finest example of Swedish late baroque.

The Swedish regalia, crowns, sceptres, orbs and keys are displayed at Skattkammaren (Royal Treasury), by the southern entrance to the palace near Slottskyrkan (Royal Chapel). Gustav III’s Antikmuseum displays the Mediterranean treasures, particularly sculpture, acquired by the eccentric monarch. Descend into the basement Museum Tre Kronor to eye the foundations of 13th-century defensive walls and exhibits rescued from the medieval castle during the fire of 1697.

The Changing of the Guard (402 63 17) takes place in the outer courtyard at 12.15pm Monday to Saturday and 1.15pm Sunday and public holidays from June to August, and 12.15pm Wednesday and Saturday and 1.15pm Sunday and public holidays from September to May.

HELGEANDSHOLMEN

Though technically separated from Gamla Stan, this little island in the middle of Norrström is home to a couple of fascinating sights. The Riksdaghuset (Swedish Parliament; Map; 786 48 62; www.riksdagen.se; Mynttorget 2; admission free; 1hr tours noon, 1pm, 2pm & 3pm Mon-Fri late Jun-Aug, noon & 1.30pm Sat & Sun rest of year) consists of two parts: the older front section (facing downstream) dates from the early 20th century, but the other more modern part contains the current debating chamber. Tours of the building are surprisingly compelling and serve as a primer on the Swedish system of consensus-building government.

Reopening in early 2010, the atmospheric Medeltidsmuseet (Medieval Museum; Map; 50 83 17 90; www.medeltidsmuseet.stockholm.se; Strömparterren) lies at the other end of the island. While preparing to build a Riksdag car park here in the late 1970s, construction workers unearthed foundations dating from the 1530s. The ancient walls were preserved as found and a museum was built around them. Faithful reconstructions of typical abodes, sheds and workshops transport visitors to medieval Stockholm (albeit with a better lighting and sound system).

Also in the museum is the well-preserved, 1520s-era ship, Riddarsholm. While the main museum remains closed, a temporary (and very modest) outpost has been set up inside Kulturhuset (Sergels Torg; admission free; 11am-7pm Tue-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun).

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ABBA-SOLUTELY FABULOUS!

Despite the indefinite postponement of its opening (expect a 2010 opening due to construction setbacks; check the website for updates on opening date, hours and prices), Stockholm’s eagerly anticipated, epically hyped ABBA: The Museum (Map; 650 00 80; www.abbamuseum.com; Stora Tullhuset, Stadsgården) is set to become one of Sweden’s major crowd-pullers, with an estimated half-million visitors annually.

Housed in a converted customs building on Södermalm, the museum’s three floors will trace the supergroup’s rise to pop immortality in what promises to be an interactive, multimedia extravaganza. A series of linear, interactive ‘scenes’ will have you hanging out in the recreated Polar recording studio, shaking your booty on stage and even creating your own chart topper. Then there’s the glittering memorabilia, spanning everything from the group’s awards, photographs and instruments to those criminally outrageous costumes. Online tickets are date- and time-specific, and subject to availability, meaning you choose a specific timeslot

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