Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [44]
Central Stockholm
NATIONALMUSEUM
Sweden’s largest art museum, the National-museum (Map; 51 95 44 10; www.nationalmuseum.se; Södra Blasieholmshamnen; adult/under 19yr Skr100/free; 11am-5pm Wed-Sun, to 8pm Tue Jun-Aug; 11am-5pm Wed-Sun, to 8pm Tue & Thu Sep-May) houses the national collection of painting, sculpture, drawings, decorative arts and graphics, from the Middle Ages to the present. Some of the art became state property on the death of Gustav III in 1792, making this one of the earliest public museums in the world. Around 16,000 items of painting and sculpture are on display, including magnificent works by the likes of Rembrandt, Rubens and Cézanne, as well as masterpieces by local greats like Andres Zorn, CG Pilo and Carl Larsson. Around 30,000 items make up the decorative arts collection, including porcelain, furniture, glassware, silverware and late-medieval tapestries. Design aficionados will drool over the Den moderna formen 19002000 exhibition, which follows the evolution of Scandi design and features iconic pieces like Gösta Thames’ Cobra telephone and Jonas Bohlin’s Concrete Chair. There’s also an excellent museum shop and a light-filled terrace cafe.
HISTORISKA MUSEET
The national historical collection awaits at this enthralling museum (Map; 51 95 56 00; www.historiska.se; Narvavägen 13; adult/under 19yr Skr60/free; 11am-5pm, 11am-8pm Thu Oct-Apr, 10am-5pm May-Sep). From Iron Age skates and a Viking boat to medieval textiles and Renaissance triptychs, it spans over 10,000 years of Swedish history and culture. The undisputed highlight is the subterranean Gold Room, a brooding chamber gleaming with Viking bling and rare treasures, including the jewel-encrusted, millennium-old Reliquary for St Elisabeth. The most astonishing artefact, however, is the 5th-century seven-ringed gold collar with 458 carved figures, weighing 823g. Discovered in Västergötland in the 19th century, it was likely used by pagan priests in ritualistic ceremonies. Bring ID to use the museum’s free audioguides.
STADSHUSET
A mighty mass of brown bricks (eight million in total), Stadshuset (Town Hall; Map; 50 82 90 58; Hantverkargatan 1; entrance by tour only, adult/child Skr60/30; tours in English 10am, 11am, noon, 2pm, 3pm & 4pm Jun-Aug; 10am, noon & 2pm Sep-May) is Stockholm’s architectural ‘alpha male’. Topping its hulking square tower is a golden spire and the symbol of Swedish power, the three royal crowns. (It’s no coincidence that the tower is one whole metre taller than Copenhagen’s equivalent.) Punctured by two courtyards, the building’s interior includes the glittering, mosaic-lined Gyllene salen (Golden Hall), Prins Eugen’s own fresco recreation of the lake view from the gallery, and the very hall used for the annual Nobel Prize banquet. Part of the tour involves walking down the same stairs you’d use if you’d won the big prize. Entry is by daily tour only, and these may be interrupted from time to time by preparations for special events. The tower (adult/child Skr20/free; 9am-5pm Jun-Aug, 9am-4pm May & Sep) offers stellar views and a great thigh workout.
OTHER SIGHTS
Delve into the darker side of human nature at Armémuseum (Map; 788 95 60; Riddargatan 13; adult/under 19yr Skr50/free; 11am-8pm Tue, 11am-5pm Wed-Sun), where three levels of engrossing exhibitions explore the horrors of war through art, weaponry and life-size reconstructions of charging horsemen, forlorn barracks and starving civilians. You can even hop on a replica ‘saw horse’ for a taste of medieval torture.
A private palace completed in 1898, Hallwylska Museet (The Hallwyl Collection; Map; 51 95 55 99; Hamngatan 4; adult/under 19yr Skr50/free, admission & guided tour adult/under 19yr Skr70/free; 11.45am-4pm Tue & Thu-Sun, 11.45am-4pm & 5.45-7pm Wed) was once home to compulsive hoarder