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Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [54]

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of Stockholm’s food scene in late May/early June, which includes gourmet food stalls and entertainment on central Kungsträdgården.

Stockholm International Film Festival (www.filmfestivalen.se) In November, a major celebration of local and foreign cinema with guest speakers who are often top directors.

Stockholm Jazz Festival (www.stockholmjazz.com) One of Europe’s premier jazz festivals, held in mid-July.

Stockholms Kulturfestival (www.kulturfestivalen.stockholm.se) In August, one week of everything (and anything) from sidewalk opera to street theatre and dance gigs, with most of the 400-odd cultural events free.

Stockholm Marathon (www.stockholmmarathon.se) Run in June.

Stockholm Open (www.stockholmopen.se) Nine days of international tennis and courtside celebrity-spotting, held in October.

Stockholm Pride (www.stockholmpride.org) In late July/early August Stockholm goes pink with five brilliant days of queer parties and cultural events plus a pride parade.


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SLEEPING

Whether you slumber in youth hostels, B&Bs, boutique digs or big-name chains, you can expect high quality accommodation in Stockholm. The trade-off is that it can be an expensive city to sleep in, but deals do exist! Major hotel chains are invariably cheaper booked online and in advance, and most hotels offer discounted rates on weekends (Friday, Saturday and often Sunday night) and in summer (from Midsummer to mid-August), sometimes up to 50% off the listed price.

The handy booklet Hotels and Youth Hostels in Stockholm, available free from tourist offices, lists most hotels and their regular and discount rates.

A number of agencies, including Bed & Breakfast Service (660 55 65; www.bedbreakfast.se) and Bed & Breakfast Agency (643 80 28; www.bba.nu), can arrange apartment or B&B accommodation from around Skr400 per person per night.

Stockholm has HI-affiliated STF hostels (where a membership card yields a Skr50 discount), as well as SVIF hostels and independent hostels (no membership cards required). Many have options for single, double or family rooms. Generally, you’ll pay extra to use the hostel’s linen; bring your own sleeping sheet to save around Skr50 per night. Many hostels have breakfast available, usually for an additional Skr50 to Skr70.

Hostels tend to fill up during the late afternoon in peak summer season, so arrive early or book in advance. They can also be busy in May, when Swedish school groups typically visit the capital.

The following options are organised by neighbourhood and price range. Room prices are for peak season, unless otherwise stated. For hotels operating a flexible pricing system, both the lowest and highest prices are given. The price you’ll pay will depend on several variables, including demand at time of booking.

Gamla Stan

Ideal for romantics, though admittedly pricier than other parts of the city, Stockholm’s medieval nexus has several atmospheric slumber spots that put you in easy reach of other thriving city neighbourhoods.

MIDRANGE

Rica Hotel Gamla Stan (Map; 723 72 50; www.rica.se; Lilla Nygatan 25; s Skr895-2245, d Skr995-2595; ) If you fancy classic Swedish interiors, rush to Rica, where the smallish rooms feature anything from powder-blue wallpaper and dainty furniture to vintage chandeliers. The revamped bathrooms add a modern edge to the 17th-century building, and the location is perfect for soaking up Gamla Stan’s history.

Lord Nelson Hotel (Map; 50 64 01 20; www.lordnelsonhotel.se; Västerlånggatan 22; s Skr990-1990, d Skr1790-2390, summer & weekend s/d Skr990/1790; ) Yo-ho-ho, me scurvy barnacles! It’s a tight squeeze but this pink-painted, glass-fronted building feels like a creaky old ship loaded with character. At just 5m wide, the 17th-century building is Sweden’s narrowest hotel. Its nautical theme extends to brass and mahogany furnishings, antique sea-captain trappings and a model ship in each of the small rooms. Some are in need of a little TLC, but all are comfy and clean, and we adore the little rooftop sundeck.

Mälardrottningen (Map; 54 51 87 80; www.malardrottningen.se;

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