Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [56]
Rex Hotel (Map; 16 00 40; www.rexhotel.se; Luntmakargatan 73; s Skr1590-1890, summer & weekends Skr990-1190, d Skr1990-2290, summer & weekends Skr1190-1390; ) While a little less luxe than its sibling Hotel Hellsten across the street, Rex’s stylish, functional rooms still deliver the same flatscreen TVs and svelte, Greek-stone bathrooms. Rooms in the brand-new extension feature urbane concrete walls, walnut furniture and lush velvet textiles. Other positives include a fab glassed-in breakfast space and fascinating travel photography by the affable owner.
Hotel Hellsten (p82; 661 86 00; www.hellsten.se; Luntmakargatan 68; s Skr1690-1990, discounted to Skr1190-1390, d Skr2090-2390, discounted to Skr1490-1690; ) Hip Hellsten is owned by anthropologist Per Hellsten, whose slick slumber number features objects from his travels and life, including Congan tribal masks and his grandmother’s chandelier. Rooms are supremely comfortable and individually styled, with themes ranging from rustic Swedish to Indian exotica; some even feature original tile stoves. The sleek bathrooms sport phones and hand-cut Greek slate. Hotel extras include a sauna and a small fitness room, as well as live jazz in the ethno-chic lounge on Thursday evening.
Grand Hôtel Stockholm (Map; 679 35 00; www.grandhotel.se; Södra Blasieholmshamnen 8; s Skr1900-4200, d Skr2500-6900; ) This is where the literati, glitterati and nobility call it a night. A waterfront landmark, with several exclusive restaurants and a see-and-be-seen piano bar, it remains Stockholm’s most sumptuous lodgings. Room styles span royal Gustavian to contemporary chic. Room 701 has a unique tower with a 360-degree view; room 702 is the astounding Nobel Room, where the literature prize–winner slumbers overnight.
Nordic Sea Hotel (Map; 50 56 30 00; www.nordicseahotel.com; Vasaplan 4; s Skr1650-3400, weekends & summer Skr890-2050, d Skr2250-3800, weekends & summer Skr1120-2650; ) This sister hotel to the slightly more upmarket and smaller Nordic Light has an impressive 9000L aquarium in the foyer. Its bar is the famous Absolut Icebar, built entirely of ice, where you can throw on a parka and mittens and drink chilled vodka concoctions out of little ice glasses.
Nordic Light Hotel (p82; 50 56 30 00; www.nordiclighthotel.com; Vasaplan 7; s Skr2250-4300, weekends & summer Skr1530-3250, d Skr2450-4300, weekends & summer Skr1730-3250; ) Another design option, the Nordic Light is a minimalist Scandi statement, with slick, well-equipped rooms. The signature ‘mood rooms’ ditch conventional artwork for custom-designed light exhibits, which guests can adjust to suit their temperament. Additional hotel perks include a minigym, saunas and a chic lobby bar.
Berns Hotel (Map; 56 63 22 00; www.berns.se; Näckströmsgatan 8; s/d from Skr2650/2950; ) Popular with rock stars, the rooms at forever-hip Berns come equipped with CD players and styles ranging from 19th-century classical to contemporary sleek. Some rooms are more impressive than others (the balcony rooms get our vote); Room 431 was once a dressing room used by the likes of Marlene Dietrich and Ella Fitzgerald. Part of an historical entertainment complex, with buzzing restaurants, bars and live acts, it’s a sparkly choice for the party crew.
Skeppsholmen
Connected to the city centre by bridge and to Djurgården by ferry, this leafy island is home to some marvellous museums and views, as well as a sterling hostel.
Vandrarhem af Chapman & Skepps-holmen (Map; 463 22 66; www.svenskaturistforeningen.se/afchapman; adult/child dm from Skr185/110, s & d from Skr520; ) The legendary af Chapman is a storied vessel that has done plenty of travelling of its own. It’s now well anchored in a superb, quiet location, swaying gently off Skeppsholmen. Bunks in dorms below decks have a nautical ambience, unsurprisingly. Staff members are friendly and knowledgable about the city and surrounding areas. Apart from showers and toilets, all facilities are on dry land in the Skeppsholmen hostel,