Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [59]
Outlying Areas
BUDGET
If things get desperate in town, there are more than 20 hostels around the county easily reached by SL buses, trains or archipelago boats within an hour or so. There are also numerous summer camping grounds, many offering cheap cabin accommodation. More options are mentioned in the Around Stockholm section (Click here).
Klubbensborg (Map; 646 12 55; klubbensborg@telia.com; Klubbensborgsvägen 27; dm from Skr200, s/d Skr450/750; ) Southwest of central Stockholm, this agreeable SVIF hostel boasts a gorgeous lakeside setting. Several buildings date back to the 17th century, and there’s a kitchen, laundry, cafe and summer camping area. The downside: it’s a meandering 1km walk from the closest metro station (T-Mälarhöjden).
Bredängs Vandrarhem & Camping (Map; 97 62 00; mail@bredangvandrarhem.se; Stora Sällskapetsväg 51; sites Skr250, dm Skr200, 4-bed cabins Skr920; campsite early Apr-early Oct, hostel early Jan–mid-Dec) Another lakeside option, 10km southwest of central Stockholm. It’s well equipped, with a hostel and cabins. Take the metro to T-Bredäng, then walk 700m. If you’re driving, it’s well signposted from the E4/E20 motorway.
Hotel Formule 1 (Map; 744 20 44; Mikrofonvägen 30; r Skr390) Just about the cheapest hotel option going, with small, uninspiring rooms that accommodate up to three people. Facilities are shared, and it’s 4km southwest of town (take the metro to T-Telefonplan), but who can argue at that price?
TOP END
Hotel J (off Map; 601 30 00; www.hotelj.com; Ellensviksvägen 1, Nacka Strand; s Skr1795-2195, d Skr2195-2595, summer & weekend s/d from Skr1275/1575; ) This is a popular weekend getaway for Stockholmers, with a breezy Hamptons vibe. The chic summer house, built in 1912, is named after the boats used in the America’s Cup. The scent of nonchalant wealth wafts unmistakably through the air here. Rooms are decorated with furnishings by hip design store R.O.O.M. Take the metro to T-Slussen then bus 404 or 443.
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EATING
Stockholmers like to think of themselves as consummate foodies. In a city with seven Michelin-starred restaurants, it’s understandable. Here, top chefs are veritable celebrities, and a table at their dining dens a prized possession. But it’s not just about the food, it’s also about the style. That Thomas Sandell decked out Kungsholmen or that Ilse Crawford designed Mathias Dahlgren is almost as much a drawcard as the fare itself. Admittedly, these epicurean highlights don’t come cheap, although a few places offer more kronor-friendly lunch menus or lower-fuss bar grub.
If you’re after a cheap, filling lunch, your best bet is one of Stockholm’s atmospheric cafes. Aside from the beloved Swedish ritual of coffee and cakes, these bolt holes serve filling grub, from salads, focaccias and classic Swedish sandwiches (smörgåsar) to warming soups, quiche and pasta dishes.
Also less likely to break the bank are Stockholm’s old-school restaurants, often serving up husmanskost (classic Swedish home cooking). Equally affordable is the ever-growing number of ethnic eateries, where flavours span anything from Ethiopian to tongue-teasing Thai.
For a quick, inexpensive snack, it’s hard to go past a grillad korv med bröd – your basic grilled hot dog on a bun – available for between Skr15 and Skr30 from carts all over town.
For a comprehensive list of vegan restaurants in and around Stockholm, log on to www.veganstockholm.se.
Gamla Stan
BUDGET
Chokladkoppen (Map; 20 31 70; Stortorget; cakes & snacks Skr30-70) Arguably Stockholm’s best-loved cafe, hole-in-the-wall Chokladkoppen sits slap bang on the Old Town’s enchanting main square. It’s a gay-friendly spot, with cute, gym-fit waiters, a look-at-me summer terrace and yummy grub like broccoli and blue-cheese pie and scrumptious cakes.
Sundbergs Konditori (Map; 10 67 35; Järntorget 83; bagels & ciabatta Skr55-60) Dating from 1785, this is Stockholm’s oldest bakery-cafe, complete with chintzy chandeliers, regal oil paintings and a copper samovar full