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Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [6]

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the shorter nearby trails in the area. Expert hikers may opt instead to spend their mountaineering time in the more challenging Sarek National Park. From here, head to Gällivare and catch the historic Inlandsbanan railway to Jokkmokk, home of the world’s best museum of Sami culture, the Ájtte. Continue on the railway through some of the most spectacular scenery in the country, stopping, if your schedule allows, at Sorsele, Storuman and Östersund. From here, rent a car and cruise over to explore the breathtaking scenery of Höga Kusten (High Coast; ). Continue southward toward Lake Siljan and the surrounding villages. Stop to see the pre-Viking burial mounds Gamla Uppsala with a detour to stroll Sweden’s oldest main street in cute Sigtuna on your way to Stockholm. The wonderful capital city will hold your attention for as many days as you can devote to it. When it’s time to move on, head towards dynamic Göteborg, and Kalmar with its fantastic Renaissance-era castle. Visit the island town of Karlskrona, which is on the Unesco World Heritage List. Stop and take a deep breath in the beautiful Österlen area. Wrap things up by exploring the vibrant southern towns of Lund and Malmö, from where it’s a cinch to cross the Öresund bridge into Copenhagen.

There’s a lot of territory to cover in Sweden, but in a full month you can see most of its highlights by following this top-to-bottom route.


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ROADS LESS TRAVELLED

REINDEER GAMES Five to Seven Days / Luleå to Luleå

From Luleå, cruise up to the historic military outpost of Boden. Continue heading northwards and cross the Arctic Circle around Jokkmokk, which is a Sami cultural centre and home to the excellent Ájtte Museum. If the weather’s in your favour, branch off to Kvikkjokk, next-door neighbour to the rugged Sarek National Park. Then push on toward Gällivare and up to Kiruna. Sweden’s northernmost city is worth some exploring on its own, but it also has a charming neighbour in Jukkasjärvi (see boxed text), home to the famous Ice Hotel. From here, you could dash over to Abisko National Park for some spectacular and easily accessible hiking, or go straight north to the remote village of Karesuando, on the Finnish border. Make your way along the Sweden-Finland border toward Pajala, keeping an eye out for stray Rudolphs – for entertainment, keep a log of the number of reindeer you have to follow at casual trotting speed along a major highway. Stop in Haparanda for some serious shopping, then follow the curve of the coastline back to Luleå.

Dodge herds of reindeer on this journey, where the domesticated critters outnumber cars on the highway.


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VICIOUS CYCLING One to Two Weeks / Visby to Visby

This journey starts directly behind the ferry station in Visby, where you can rent a bicycle and camping equipment from various outlets. Once you’ve sorted your equipment, head north along the waterfront to catch Gotlandsleden, the bicycle trail that circumnavigates the island. Follow it to the grotto at Lummelunda, then continue northward past Stenkyrka and around to the inlet at Kappelshamn. From here it’s an easy morning’s ride to Fårösund, where you can stock up on picnic items and catch the free ferry to the islet of Fårö, home of Ingmar Bergman. There’s a tourist information centre in Fårö town, near another grocery store and cafe. Take your time circling the islet, stopping at the gravesite of British troops who fought in the Crimean war at Ryssnäs and at any of the beaches or harbours that strike your fancy. Your goal is to reach Langhammarshammaren in time to watch the sunset over the eerie rock formations. Afterwards, head back to Fårösund and follow the Gotlandsleden signs southward, stopping for a peek at Bungemuseet. At Slite you can choose to stick to the coastline or head inland through the Kallgateburgs Nature Reserve; the coastal route is lined with pretty beaches, while the inland option passes through pastoral countryside. (The less ambitious can easily loop back to Visby and wrap up their tour at this point.)

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