Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [68]
Konserthuset (Map; 50 66 77 88; www.konserthuset.se; Hötorget; tickets Skr80-325) Head here for classical concerts and other musical marvels, including the Royal Phil-harmonic Orchestra.
Operan (Map; 791 44 00; www.operan.se; Operahuset, Gustav Adolfs Torg; tickets Skr40-790) The Royal Opera is the place to go for thunderous tenors, sparkling sopranos and classical ballet. It also has some bargain tickets in seats with poor views for as little as Skr40, and occasional lunchtime concerts for Skr180 (including light lunch).
Folkoperan (Map; 616 07 50; www.folkoperan.se; Hornsgatan 72; tickets Skr260-420) Folkoperan gives opera a thoroughly modern overhaul with its intimate, cutting-edge and sometimes controversial productions. The under-26s enjoy half-price tickets.
Dramaten (Map; 667 06 80; www.dramaten.se; Nybroplan; tickets Skr190-320) The Royal Theatre stages a range of plays in a sublime art nouveau environment. Dramaten’s experimental stage Elverket (Map) at Linnégatan 69 (same contact details), pushes the boundaries with edgier offerings performed in a converted power station.
Stockholms Stadsteatern (Map; 50 62 02 00; Kulturhuset, Sergels Torg; tickets around Skr250, under 26yr around Skr100) Regular performances are staged here, plus guest appearances by foreign theatre companies.
Dansens Hus (Map; 50 89 90 90; www.dansenshus.se; Barnhusgatan 12-14; tickets free-Skr300) The stomping ground of Mats Ek’s Cullberg Ballet, this place is an absolute must for contemporary dance fans. Guest artists have included everyone from British choreographer Akram Khan to Canadian innovator Daniel Léveillé.
Globen (off Map; 0771-31 00 00; www.globen.se; Globentorget 2) This huge white spherical building (it looks like a giant golf ball) just south of Södermalm hosts regular big-name pop and rock concerts, as well as sporting events and trade fairs. Take the metro to T-Globen.
Sport
Bandy matches, a uniquely Scandinavian phenomenon, take place all winter at Stockholm’s ice arenas.
Head over to Zinkensdamms Idrottsplats (Map; 668 93 31; Ringvägen 16), where watching a bandy match is great fun. The sport, a precursor to ice hockey but with more players (11 to a side) and less fighting, has grown massively popular since the rise of the Hammarby team in the late ’90s. There’s a round vinyl ball instead of a puck, and the rules are similar to football, except that you hit the ball with a stick instead of kicking it. The season lasts from November to March, so make sure you bring your own thermos of kaffekask – a warming mix of coffee and booze. For the low-down on upcoming matches, check out www.svenskbandy.se/stockholm (in Swedish). Tickets (Skr120) can be purchased at the arena gate.
For the ultimate Scandi sport experience, head to an ice hockey game. Contact Globen (50 83 53 00; www.globen.se; Arenavägen, Johanneshov; tickets Skr150-200) for details; matches take place here up to three times a week from October to April. There are regular football fixtures here, too. Purchase tickets through Ticnet (0771-31 00 00; www.ticnet.se). The nearest metro station is T-Globen.
Impromptu public skating areas spring up during the winter at Kungsträdgården in Norrmalm and at Medborgarplatsen in Södermalm. Skate-rental booths next to the rinks hire out equipment (Skr40/20 per adult/child per hour).
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SHOPPING
A progressive design and fashion hub, Stockholm is bliss for retail revellers. Good local buys include edgy streetwear, designer objects and furnishings (see boxed text, below), and edible treats like cloudberry jam, pickled herring in brännvin (aquavit) sauce and bottles of Yule-time Blossa glögg (spiced wine). Södermalm’s SoFo district (the streets south of Folkungagatan) is your best bet for new-school, home-grown fashion.
Non-EU residents are entitled to a duty-free refund of up to 17.5% on single purchases of more than Skr200 bought from tax-free shopping