Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [73]
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AROUND STOCKHOLM
With royal palaces, vintage villages and Viking traces, the greater Stockholm county is certainly worth a venture or three. Handily, the SL Tourist Card or travel passes allow unlimited travel on all buses and local trains in the area. Free timetables are available from the SL office in Centralstationen, the SL terminals at Slussen or Östrastationen and the SL website.
Just to the east of Stockholm, the magical islands of the Stockholm archipelago have inspired the likes of writer August Strindberg and artist Andres Zorn. Ferry services aren’t expensive and there’s a travel pass available if you fancy a fix of island hopping.
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EKERÖ DISTRICT
The pastoral Ekerö district, 20km west of Stockholm, is home to the romantic Drottningholm castle as well as several large islands in Mälaren lake, a dozen medieval churches and the Unesco World Heritage site at Birka.
Drottningholm
The royal residence and parks of Drottningholm on Lovön are justifiably popular attractions and easy to visit from the capital. If you’re not short of time you can cycle out to the palace. Otherwise, take the metro to T-Brommaplan and change to any bus numbered between 301 and 323. If you’re driving, there are few road signs for Drottningholm, so get hold of a decent map. The car park is second on the left after crossing Drottningholmsbron.
Strömma Kanalbolaget (Map; 1200 40 00; www.strommakanalbolaget.com) will take you to the palace by boat. Frequent services depart from Stadshusbron (Stockholm) daily between May and mid-September, with less frequent daily departures mid- to late-September, and weekend-only services in October (one way/return Skr105/140). A kombibiljett (combined ticket, Skr270) includes return travel and admission to the palace and Chinese Pavilion.
It’s a good idea to use the Stockholm Card here, as otherwise seeing everything on the grounds can get expensive.
DROTTNINGHOLMS SLOTT
Still the royal family pad for part of the year, the Renaissance-inspired main palace (402 62 80; www.royalcourt.se; adult/child Skr70/35, combined ticket incl Chinese Pavilion Skr110/55; 10am-4.30pm May-Aug, noon-3.30pm Sep, noon-3.30pm Sat & Sun Oct-Apr, closed mid-Dec–early Jan), with its geometric baroque gardens, was designed by architectural great Nicodemius Tessin the Elder and begun in 1662, about the same time as Versailles. You can either walk around the wings open to the public on your own or take a one-hour guided tour (no additional charge; English tours at 10am, noon, 2pm and 4pm daily from June to August, reduced schedule rest of the year). Tours are recommended, especially for an insight into the cultural milieu that influenced some of the decorations.
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TWICE THE STAR
Sweden’s only Michelin two-star restaurant, Edsbacka Krog (Map; 96 33 00; www.edsbackakrog.se; Sollentunavägen 220, Sollentuna; mains from Skr420, 4-/8-course menu Skr870/1300; 5.30pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 2pm-midnight Sat) is the ultimate dining indulgence and a mecca for fussy epicureans. Set snugly in an inn dating back to 1626 and headed by revered Swedish chef Christer Lingström, its seasonal Swedish-French menu is indescribably sublime – think crab with lemon sole accompanied by almonds, carrots and Swedish caviar, or cottage-cheese sorbet with a taste of herbs, flowers and champagne. (Inspired condiments may include whipped butter with apricot and rosemary.) The set menus are the best value, with ‘unofficial’ extras like caramelised foie gras with baked apple popping up unannounced.
Across the street, the more casual Edsbacka Bistro (Map; 631 00 34; www.edsbackakrog.se; Sollentunavägen 223; meals Skr95-285, 3-course menus from Skr410; 11.30am-11pm Mon-Fri, 2-11pm Sat, 2-9pm Sun) serves up simpler, cheaper grub with the same Lingström finesse.
Take suburban J-train to Sollentuna Centrum, then hop on bus 525, 527 or 607.
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The Lower North Corps de Garde was originally a guard room, but it’s now replete with gilt-leather wall hangings, which