Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [82]
Sigtunastiftelsens Gästhem (59 25 89 00; Manfred Björkquists allé 2-4; s/d from Skr1995/3500) This attractive, imposing place is run by a Christian foundation. It might look like a cross between a cloister and a medieval fortress, but rooms are much cosier than that this would imply.
Sigtuna Stadshotell (59 25 01 00; info@sigtunastadshotell.se; Stora Nygatan 3; s/d Skr2090/2490, discounted to Skr1890/2190; ) The pick of Sigtuna’s lodgings, this recently renovated number features pale, sleek and uberstylish interiors, spa treatments and a clued-up restaurant that has critics hailing it ‘a rising star’.
Tant Brunn Kaffestuga (59 25 09 34; Laurentii gränd) In a small alley off Storagatan, this delightful 17th-century cafe is set around a pretty courtyard. It’s well worth seeking out for its home-baked bread and pastries (the apple pie is divine); just watch your head as you walk in, as the roof beams sag precariously.
Farbror Blå Café & Kök (59 25 60 50; Stora torget 14; mains Skr195-215) Adjacent to the town hall, this cosy nosh spot is the ‘uncle’ (farbror) to the ‘aunt’ of Tant Brunn; both names are taken from a popular children’s story. Head in for bistro-style meals like veal cutlet with honey-roasted potatoes, tomato-basil cream cheese and black pepper sauce.
Getting There & Around
Travel connections are easy from Stockholm. Take a local train to Märsta, from where there are frequent buses to Sigtuna (570 or 575). To get to Rosersbergs Slott, take the SL pendeltåg train to Rosersberg, then walk the final 2km to the palace (signposted). For Skokloster, take a half-hourly SJ train to Bålsta, then bus 311 (ask the driver to let you off at the stop for Skokloster).
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MARIEFRED
0159
Tiny, lakeside Mariefred is a pretty little village that pulls in the crowds with its grand castle, Gripsholm Slott.
Information
The tourist office (297 90; www.mariefred.se; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat Jun-Aug; also 11am-5pm Sun Jul & early–mid-Sep; 10am-3pm Mon-Sat early–mid-Sep; 11am-3pm Sat mid-Apr–May) offers a map and notes (in English) for a self-guided walking tour of the idyllic village centre, with cobblestone streets and 18th-century buildings.
Sights
Gripsholm Slott (101 94; adult/child Skr70/35; 10am-4pm mid-May–mid-Sep) is the epitome of castles, with its round towers, spires, drawbridge and creaky wooden halls. It contains some of the state portrait collection, which dates from the 16th century.
Originally built in the 1370s, it passed into crown hands by the early 15th century. In 1526 Gustav Vasa took over and ordered the demolition of the adjacent monastery. A new castle with walls up to 5m thick was built using materials from the monastery, but extensions, conversions and repairs continued for years. The oldest ‘untouched’ room is Karl IX’s bedchamber, dating from the 1570s. The castle was abandoned in 1715, but renovated and extended during the reign of Gustav III (especially between 1773 and 1785). The moat was filled in and, in 1730 and later in 1827, two 11th-century rune stones were found. These stones stand by the access road and are well worth a look; one has a Christian cross, while the other describes an expedition against the Saracens. Gripsholm Slott was restored again in the 1890s, the moat was cleared and the drawbridge rebuilt.
Another worthy pit stop is nearby Grafikens Hus (231 60; adult/under 19yr Skr70/free; 11am-5pm May-Sep, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun Oct-Apr), a centre for contemporary graphic art and printmaking.
Sleeping & Eating
Gripsholmsviken Hotell & Konferens (367 00; www.gripsholmsviken.se; s with/without bathroom Skr1140/495, d Skr1840/660, s/d with bathroom discounted to Skr660/990; mid-Jun–mid-Aug) Once a hostel, this revamped option now offers hostel and hotel lodgings in what was once a royal distillery commissioned by Gustav III in the late 18th century. The in-house restaurant is a slinky affair, there’s a cafe on the leafy grounds, and the castle is a mere 500m to the