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Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [86]

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of Motala ström, approximately 2.5km from the city. It’s short on bells and whistles, but there’s a small cafe on site. Public transport is nonexistent.

STF Vandrarhem Turistgården (10 11 60; info@turistgarden.se; Ingelstagatan 31; dm/s/d from Skr195/290/405; ) A pleasing little hostel about 800m north of the train station.

STF Vandrarhem Abborreberg (31 93 44; abborreberg@telia.com; dm Skr220; Apr–mid-Oct; ) Stunningly situated in a coastal pine wood 6km east of town, this sterling hostel offers accommodation in huts scattered through the surrounding park. The associated ice-cream parlour is a hit with gluttons. Take bus 116 to Lindö.

Hörnans Hotell & Vandrarhem (16 58 90; www.hotellhornan.com; cnr Hörngatan & Sankt Persgatan; dm/s/d Skr270/405/740) The only central budget option, with comfy rooms above a busy pub-restaurant. All come with cable TV.

HOTELS

Hotell Isabell (16 90 82; www.hotelisabell.se; Vatten-gränden 7; s Skr475, d with/without bathroom Skr675/575; ) A cheapish, satisfactory option. Reception hours are limited, so phone ahead.

Hotell Drott (18 00 60; info@hotelldrott.com; Tunnbindaregatan 19; s/d Skr710/860, discounted to Skr495/710; ) Peaceful Hotell Drott serves up old-fashioned but comfy rooms, as well as a kitchen for self-caterers. Breakfast includes meatballs and light evening meals are an option.

Hotel Centric (12 90 30; info@centrichotel.se; Gamla Rådstugugatan 18; s/d Skr710/860, discounted to Skr495/710; ) Spacious rooms and solid wooden furniture are the trademark at Norrköping’s oldest hotel.

Scandic Hotel Norrköping City (495 52 00; norrkopingcity@scandic-hotels.com; Slottsgatan 99; s Skr1250-1650, discounted to Skr790-990, d Skr1350-1750, discounted to Skr890-1090; ) Near the train station, the Scandic City makes up for its dowdy foyer with crisp, modern rooms featuring retro-cool wallpaper and flatscreen TVs. Hotel perks include a sauna and Jacuzzi.

Eating & Drinking

Choklad Companiet (12 61 61; Prästgatan 3; closed Sun) Head to this chocolate shop-cum-cafe for exquisite homemade gelato (try the white chocolate, lime and chilli), desserts, pralines and truffles. As for the espresso, it could make an Italian barista weep.

Manesa (450 14 38; Gamla Rådstugugatan 10; tapas dishes Skr29-99; 2pm-1am Mon-Sat Jun-Aug, from 4pm Sep-May) Polished punters adore this sassy tapas-cocktail lounge. Join them on leather lounges for global finger food like Japanese tempura and moreish tuna-and-guacamole seafood spoons. Rum rules the cocktail list, with over 30 types of the tropical drop on offer.

Bagarstugan (470 20 20; Skolgatan 1A; sandwiches Skr40-49, salads Skr59-65; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, noon-4pm Sun) This stylish, floor-boarded bakery-cafe peddles freshly-baked cookies, cinnamon buns, muffins and scones, as well as salubrious salads, sandwiches and take-away homemade marmalades. There’s a courtyard for alfresco noshing.

Källaren Bacchus (10 07 40; Gamla Torget 4; lunch Skr68, mains Skr182-295) A perennially popular restaurant-pub with a great summer garden courtyard and snug vaulted cellar. Steak is a speciality, while tasty fish dishes may include fried pike perch with chilli-lime butter and potato pastry.

Fiskmagasinet (13 45 60; Skolgatan 1; lunch Skr73, mains Skr195-315; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Housed in a recently converted 19th-century snus (snuff) factory, urbane Fiskmagasinet combines an intimate bar with a casually chic dining room serving savvy seafood dishes like grilled scampi with mashed potato, truffle and port wine reduction, as well as cheaper Swedish classics.

Bomulls Fabriken (13 44 00; Dalsgatan 13; lunch Skr89, mains Skr139-289; Tue-Sat from 5pm, plus lunch Mon-Fri winter) Wedged between the tourist office and Louis de Geer Konserthus, this trendy warehouse bistro serves crossover grub like asparagus risotto with orange-marinated fennel, carrot salad and grilled bread. It turns into a nightclub on Friday and Saturday, with two dance floors serving up R&B, old-school rock and Schlager to revellers 25 years and over.

Knäppingen (10 74 45; Västgötegatan 21;

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