Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [91]
The Sancta Birgitta Klostermuseet (100 31; Lasarettsgatan; adult/8-18yr Sk50/20; 10.30am-5pm Jul-early Aug; 11am-4pm Jun & rest of Aug; 11am-4pm Sat & Sun May, Sep & Oct) is in Bjälboättens Palats (a royal residence that became a convent in 1384), and tells the story of St Birgitta’s roller-coaster life and those of all her saint-and-sinner children. Artefacts include the coffin that she was brought back from Rome in.
‘Of plain construction, humble and strong’, Klosterkyrkan (abbey church; admission free; 9am-8pm Jul, 9am-7pm Jun & Aug, 9am-5pm May & Sep) was built in response to one of St Birgitta’s visions. After the church’s consecration in 1430, Vadstena became the top pilgrimage site in Sweden. Step inside for medieval sculptures and carved floor slabs.
Both the old courthouse rådhus, on the town square, and Rödtornet (Sånggatan) are late medieval constructions.
Sleeping
Chain hotels don’t get a look-in here; pretty and personal is the rule. Book accommodation well in advance.
STF Vandrarhem Vadstena (103 02; Skänningegatan 20; dm Skr180; ) A short walk from the town centre sits this big hostel, with affable staff, sunny dorms and a large underground kitchen decorated with cheery Dala horses. Book ahead from late August to early June.
Vätterviksbadet (127 30; sites Skr195, r & cabins from Skr350; May–mid-Sep; ) A quality campsite near the lake, 2km north of town, it has family-friendly amenities including a beach with shallow waters, minigolf, boules, a sauna, a water slide, a kiosk, a cafe and a pub.
27:ans Nattlogi (765 64; 27ans@va-bostaelle.se; Storgatan 27; s/d from Skr500/850; ) Wooden floors give a homely vibe to the six rooms (some with views of Klosterkyrkan). More expensive rooms have private bathrooms. All include breakfast.
Pensionat Solgården (143 50; www.pensionatsolgarden.se, in Swedish; Strågatan 3; s/d from Skr540/690; May-Sep) Set in an utterly adorable wooden villa, this family-run hotel boasts lovingly decorated rooms; some have private bathrooms and all have an art/artist connection. They’re all very different – check the photos on the website to choose your favourite.
Vadstena Klosterhotel (315 30; hotel@klosterhotel.se; s/d from Skr1095/1395; ) History and luxury merge at this wonderfully atmospheric hotel in St Birgitta’s old convent. The bathrooms are a wee bit dated, but the medieval-style rooms are great, with chandeliers, high wooden beds and heaven-sent coffee-makers. Most boast lake views.
Eating & Drinking
Hamnpaviljongen (310 95), in the park facing the castle, is an alfresco cafe with decent sandwiches, light meals and a refreshing verdant vibe.
Restaurant Munkklostret (130 00; lunch Skr85, mains Skr200-324; from noon in summer, shorter hours in winter) The Klosterhotel’s ravishing restaurant is the best nosh spot in town. Seasonal, succulent steak, lamb, game and fish dishes are flavoured with herbs from the monastery garden, and served in the monks’ old dorms.
Rådhuskällaren (121 70; Rådhustorget; mains Skr119-195) Under the old courthouse, this affable 15th-century cellar restaurant dishes out simple but filling burger, pasta and fish meals. Its outdoor area is a favourite afternoon drinking spot in summer.
There’s a central supermarket, CoopKonsum (Rådhustorget; to 11pm) and a nearby Systembolaget (100 36; Hovsgatan 4).
Getting There & Around
See Linköping Click here for regional transport information. Only buses run to Vadstena – take bus 610 to Motala (for trains to Örebro), or bus 661 to Mjölby