Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [93]
West of town is the expanse of Stadsparken. Its curiosities include the 1458 ornithological taxidermic masterpieces of Fågelmuseet (12 99 83; admission free; 11am-5pm May-Aug), and the Friluftsmuseet (30 18 00; admission free; 11am-4pm Jun-Aug) with a photogenic crew of old buildings.
From May to October, you can choose various cruises (070-637 17 00; www.rederiabkind.se) on Lake Vättern, aboard the M/S Nya Skärgården. There’s a Friday evening buffet trip (Skr405), while several other trips combine dinner and live music, costing around Skr445. The boat departs from Hamnpiren; book at the tourist office.
For waterskiing or boat hire, contact Marinbod (12 04 87; Hamnpiren; May-early Sep). Waterskiing, wakeboarding and kneeboarding all cost Skr800 per hour; small motor boats cost Skr150 per three hours or Skr250 per day.
HUSKVARNA
Square-jawed men going hunting while their wives snuggle up to their sewing machines: the Husqvarna fabriksmuseum (14 61 62; www.husqvarna-museum.nu; Hakarpsvägen 1; adult/12-18yr Skr40/20; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm Sat & Sun May-Sep; 10am-3pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm Sat & Sun Oct-Apr) conjures up a vivid 1950s world. The factory began as an arms manufacturer, before diverting into motorbikes, chainsaws, cooking ranges and microwave ovens. The atmospheric museum charts the company’s rise.
For powerful drama, catch Huskvarna’s Fallens Dag (Waterfall Day) in late August. When darkness falls the floodgates open and a torrential illuminated waterfall is released; contact the tourist office for details.
From Jönköping, take bus 1 to Huskvarna (Skr20), 7km away.
Sleeping
JÖNKÖPING
SweCamp Villa Björkhagen (12 28 63; villabjorkhagen@swipnet.se; Friggagatan 31; sites Skr185-235, r/cabins Skr350/775) About 3km east of town, this large lakeside campsite offers various accommodation options, plus playgrounds, pedal cars and minigolf for kids.
Elite Stora Hotellet (10 00 00; info@jonkoping.elite.se; Hotellplan; s Skr550-1800, d Skr800-2200, s/d discounted to Skr750/950; ) The Elite is Jönköping’s harbourside show-stopper. Rooms are chic, with either Carl Larsson–inspired undertones or a more contemporary combo of black-and-white photographs and natural hues. There’s a sauna, pool table and slinky restaurant, as well as a banqueting hall fit for royalty.
City Hotel (71 92 80; hotel@cityhotel.nu; Västra Storgatan 25; s/d from Skr795/895, discounted to Skr545/595; ) Midrange, family-run City is a step up in quality from the Grand. A slinky lobby and a batch of new, pricier rooms (think flatscreen TVs, giant black-and-white photos of Jönköping and oak-toned functionalist furniture) counterbalance the dated-yet-comfy older rooms. Extras include a Jacuzzi and three saunas.
Grand Hotel (71 96 00; info@grandhotel-jonkoping.se; Hovrättstorget; s from Skr890-1240, d Skr1080-1440, s/d discounted to Skr550/720; ) In a stately early 20th-century building, this homely central choice offers budget, standard and superior rooms. All are clean and comfy, many are spacious, and several look out over the square.
Scandic Hotel Portalen (585 42 00; www.scandichotels.com; Barnarpsgatan 6; s Skr890-1490, d Skr990-1590; ) One of Scandic’s two Jönköping hotels, the Portalen is a mash-up of minimalist Scandi cool and 1980s drab. The rooms themselves are simple yet stylish, and the superiors have private fridges and coffee-makers. The hotel also boasts a large spa with beauty treatments.
HUSKVARNA
STF Vandrarhem Huskvarna (14 88 70; www.hhv.se; Odengatan 10; hostel s/d Skr330/380, hotel s/d Skr595/780; ) Standards are high at this sizeable year-round hostel. Twinkling rooms feature TV and private toilets (except room 37, which is correspondingly cheaper), and breakfast is available (Skr60).
Eating & Drinking
For bobbing boats and tasty seafood, head straight for Hamnpiren (the harbour pier), where you’ll find a row of restaurants with good lunch specials (around Skr75) and merry dinner crowds. For cheaper alternatives, try inside the Juneporten transport and shopping