Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [95]
Boat trips are obviously a favourite way to experience the canal. You can go on a four- or six-day cruise of its entire length, travelling from Stockholm to Göteborg (or vice versa) and stopping to enjoy the wayside attractions; Click here for more information. Shorter, cheaper boat trips along sections of the canal are also available – any tourist office in the area should be able to give you the low-down. Staff can also fill you in on the range of canoeing, cycling or even horse-riding possibilities along certain parts.
A good website for ideas and inspiration formation is www.gotakanal.se.
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Across the water and 6km west is peaceful Visingsö. Connected by frequent ferries and home to Sweden’s largest oak forest, it’s a great place to cycle or chill.
Information
There’s a tourist office (410 10; www.grm.se; Grenna Kulturgård, Brahegatan 38; 10am-6pm mid-May–Aug, 10am-4pm Sep–mid-May) in central Gränna, and another tourist office (401 93; www.visingso.net; 10am-5pm May-Aug, to 7pm late-Jun–mid-Aug, 11am-6pm Mon, 8am-2pm Tue-Fri Sep-Apr) at the harbour in Visingsö. The latter offers bicycle hire (per 3hr/day Skr50/70).
There’s free internet (bring ID) at Gränna library (410 15; 10am-7pm Mon-Thu, 10am-1pm Fri), upstairs from the tourist office.
Brahegatan, the main street of Gränna, has a bank and an ATM.
Sights
In the same building as the tourist office, Gränna Museum: Andréexpedition Polarcenter (adult/child Skr50/20; 10am-6pm mid-May–Aug, 10am-4pm Sep–mid-May) describes the disastrous attempt of Salomon August Andrée to reach the North Pole by balloon in 1897. It’s riveting stuff, particularly the poignant remnants of the expedition: cracked leather boots, monogrammed handkerchiefs, lucky amulets, and mustard paper to ward off those polar winds.
Don’t be put off by Andrée’s ballooning tragedy; for Skr1895 per person you can take a one-hour scenic hot-air balloon trip (305 25; bengt@flyg-ballong.nu) over the area.
Several sweet-makers have kitchens where you can watch the town’s trademark sweets being made. One is Grenna Polkagriskokeri (100 39; Brahegatan 39), directly opposite the tourist office, which uses an authentic 19th-century recipe. You can also catch crispbread in the making at Gränna Knäcke (100 57; Brahegatan 43).
Visingsö has a 17th-century church, castle and aromatic herb garden. An extensive network of footpaths and bicycle trails lead through tranquil woods.
The beautiful lakes of Bunn and Ören, and their dark forests, inspired local artist John Bauer to paint his trolls and magical pools (Click here). From mid-June to late August, you can take a boat tour (510 50; adult/under 12yr Skr150/75; 12.30pm Sat & Sun Jun, 12.30pm Jul & Aug) to the lakes, departing from Bunnströms badplats, 2.5km from Gränna.
Sleeping & Eating
GRÄNNA
The tourist office arranges private rooms from Skr140 to Skr250 per person per night (plus Skr100 booking fee). For a choice of food in a great waterside setting, head down to the harbour (1.5km) where restaurants peddle everything from Greek, French and Italian fare to Swedish dishes (most are open summer only).
Grännastrandens Camping (107 06; info@grannacamping.se; Hamnen; sites from Skr160, 4-bed cabins from Skr500; May-Sep) A hit with families, this bustling harbourside campsite features a cafe, a shop and minigolf.
Strandterrassens Vandrarhem (418 40; www.strandterrassen.se; Hamnen; dm Skr200; ) Right beside Grännastrandens Camping (above), this hostel offers simple, bright, clean rooms in long wooden cabins, as well as a cafe.
Gyllene Uttern (108 00; info@gylleneuttern.se; s/d from Skr1255/1470, discounted to Skr940/1255; ) South of town is imposing Gyllene Uttern, an elegant hotel off the E4. Rooms are simple but masterful, and there are good-value packages including a ‘Romantic’ weekend option.
Hotell Västanå Slott (107 00; info@vastanaslott.se; d from Skr1490; May-Dec; ) This stately manor house, about 6km south of town, is perfect for regal relaxation. Per Brahe owned it