Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [103]
December
King’s Birthday Locals celebrate their monarch’s birthday with lots of parades and fireworks. Held on 5 December.
SLEEPING
At first glance, deciding where to lay your head in Bangkok appears an insurmountable task; there are countless hotels in virtually every corner of this sprawling city. Making it slightly easier is the fact that where you stay is largely determined by your budget. Banglamphu and the tourist ghetto of Th Khao San still hold the bulk of Bangkok’s budget accommodation, although the downside is that it can be difficult to get to other parts of town. Cheap rooms are also available around lower Sukhumvit, although you’ll have to put up with sex tourists and touts. Chinatown also has its share of hotels in this category, with the added bonus of anonymity. And there’s a good selection of budget digs on Soi Ngam Duphli, near Th Sathon.
Those willing to spend a bit more can consider staying in ‘downtown’ Bangkok. Both Th Sukhumvit and Th Silom have heaps of midrange options, often within walking distance of the Skytrain or Metro. The sois opposite the National Stadium, near Siam Square, have some good midrange options, and have the benefit of being close to the Skytrain.
Upper Sukhumvit is home to many of Bangkok’s boutique and upscale designer hotels. And the city’s most famous hotels are largely found along the riverside near Th Silom.
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Ko Ratanakosin & Banglamphu
Ko Ratanakosin, the most touristed area of Bangkok was until relatively recently utterly devoid of lodging options. But with the advent of the boutique hotel craze, a few riverside shophouses are being transformed into charming tourists’ nests.
Banglamphu, in particular the neighbourhood that includes the backpacker street of Th Khao San, is ground zero for accommodation in Bangkok. This doesn’t necessarily mean it’s the only or even the best place to stay in town, but prices are generally low, and services such as internet shops, travel agents and beer stalls are available in abundance, making it a convenient base.
In recent years many longstanding Banglamphu guesthouse owners have converted their former hovels into small hotels, leading to an abundance of new, good-value midrangers. Although some see this as the gentrification of Th Khao San, it’s added a dimension of accommodation that was previously lacking.
Regardless of your budget, keep in mind that Th Khao San is just one street in a large neighbourhood; there are increasingly attractive options spanning all price levels on outlying streets such as riverside Th Phra Athit, leafy Soi Rambutri and the residential side streets off Th Samsen.
It would be impossible to list all of Banglamphu’s accommodation options in this format; we’ve chosen a select few that stand out, typically those away from the main strip, which can get pretty noisy. If you’ve got the time, explore a bit and check out a few guesthouses before making a decision; during the high season (December to February), however, it’s probably a wise idea to take the first vacant bed you come across. The best time of day to find a vacancy is around check-out time, 10am or 11am.
BUDGET
The following are just a few of the budget options on and around Th Khao San; just because we haven’t included the one you’re considering doesn’t mean it’s no good. If you’re having trouble locating a cheapie, other budget options include Soi Rambutri, the sois off Th Samsen, and the alley running parallel between Th Khao San and Th Ratchadamnoen Klang, where you’ll find the area’s few remaining old-style wooden guesthouses.
New Merry V Guest House (Map; 0 2280 3315; 18-20 Th Phra Athit; r 150-700B; bus 53, 506, river ferry Tha Phra Athit; ) The interior of this vast place looks as if it underwent a recent renovation, but it is in fact just exceptionally well maintained. The cheap rooms are as bare as it gets, but are spotless and have ample natural light and the odd view or two. The more expensive rooms, although equipped with amenities, don’t represent as good value.
Baan Sabai (Map; 0 2629 1599;