Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [106]
Viengtai Hotel (Map; 0 2280 5434; www.viengtai.co.th; 42 Th Rambutri; r 2200-3000B, ste 5200B; bus 53, 506, ferry Tha Phra Athit; ) Long before Th Khao San was ‘discovered’, this was an ordinary Chinese-style hotel in a quiet neighbourhood. It now sits comfortably in the midrange with reliable but unstylish rooms. Make advance bookings for cheaper rates.
Baan Chantra (Map; 0 2628 6988; www.baanchantra.com; 120 Th Samsen; r incl breakfast 2700-4000B; bus 30, 53, 506, river ferry Tha Phra Athit; ) This beautiful converted house is without pretensions, preferring to be comfortable and roomy rather than fashionable and pinched. Many of the house’s original teak details remain, and the deluxe room boasts a sunny patio.
TOP END
Navalai River Resort (Map; 0 2280 9955; www.navalai.com; 45/1 Th Phra Athit; r incl breakfast 3000-4500B; bus 53, 506, river ferry Tha Phra Athit; ) The latest thing to go up on breezy Th Phra Athit, this chic hotel has 74 modern rooms, many looking out over the Chao Phraya River. There are attractive Thai design touches throughout, but you might end up spending much of your time checking out the views from the rooftop pool.
Old Bangkok Inn (Map; 0 2629 1787; www.oldbangkokinn.com; 609 Th Phra Sumen; r incl breakfast 3190-6590B; bus 2, 82, 511, 512, klorng taxi to Tha Phan Fah; ) The 10 rooms in this refurbished antique shophouse are decadent and sumptuous, combining rich colours and heavy wood furnishings. All have computers for personal use, and some have semi-outdoor bathrooms. The perfect honeymoon hotel.
Arun Residence (Map; 0 2221 9158; www.arunresidence.com; 36-38 Soi Pratu Nok Yung, Th Maharat; r/ste incl breakfast 3500/5500B; river ferry Tha Tien; ) Strategically located across from Wat Arun, this multilevel wooden house on the river boasts much more than just brilliant views. The seven rooms here manage to feel both homey and stylish, some being tall and loftlike, while others cojoin two rooms (the best is the top-floor suite with its own balcony). There are inviting communal areas, including a library, a rooftop bar and the Deck restaurant (Click here).
Aurum: The River Place (Map; 0 2622 2248; www.aurum-bangkok.com; 394/27-29 Th Maharat; r incl breakfast 3950-4900B; river ferry Tha Tien; ) The 12 modern rooms here don’t necessarily reflect the grand European exterior of this refurbished shophouse. Nonetheless they’re comfortable and well appointed, and most offer fleeting views of the Chao Phraya. Online discounts available.
Chakrabongse Villas (Map; 0 2622 3356; www.thaivillas.com; 396/1 Th Maharat; r incl breakfast 5000-5500B, ste incl breakfast 10,000-25,000B; river ferry Tha Tien; ) An occasionally inhabited compound of Thai royalty dating back to 1908, this unique hotel incorporates three sumptuous but cramped rooms and four larger suites and villas. There’s a pool, jungle-like gardens and an elevated deck for romantic riverside dining.
Chinatown & Phahurat
Yaowarat, Bangkok’s Chinatown, isn’t the most hospitable part of town, but for those who wish to stay off the beaten track it’s an area where travellers can remain largely anonymous. There’s a decent selection of accommodation, much of it just off busy streets, so be sure to assess the noise situation before choosing your room. The area used to be a nightmare to get to, but the Metro stop at Hualamphong has improved things immensely.
Baan Hualampong (Map; 0 2639 8054; www.baanhualampong.com; 336/20 Soi 21, Th Charoen Krung; dm/s 220/290B, d 520-700B; Metro Hualamphong; ) Repeat visitors rave about the homey setting and warm, personal service at this guesthouse. Located a short walk from Hualamphong station, kitchen and laundry facilities are also available, and there are lots of chill-out areas and computers.
River View Guest House (Map; 0 2234 5429; www.riverviewbkk.com; 768 Soi Phanurangsi, Th Songwat; d 250-950B; river ferry Tha Krom Chao Tha; ) You’ve probably