Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [110]
Peninsula Hotel (Map; 0 2861 2888; www.peninsula.com; 333 Th Charoen Nakhon, Thonburi; r 12,000-15,000B, ste 20,000-120,000B; hotel shuttle boat from Tha Sathon/Central Pier; ) After a decade in Bangkok, the Pen still seems to have it all: the location (towering over the river in Thonburi), the rep (it’s consistently one of the highest-ranking luxury hotels in the world) and one of the highest levels of service in town. If money is no obstacle, stay on one of the upper floors (there are 38) where you literally have all of Bangkok at your feet.
Siam Square & Pratunam
For centrally located accommodation, there’s really no better destination than the area surrounding Siam Square. Home to the intersection of the two Skytrain lines, and only a brief-ish (depending on traffic) taxi ride to Banglamphu, this is about as good as it gets in ever-expanding Bangkok. The only drawback is that nightlife is nonexistent, but again you’re only a short taxi ride to nightspots in Silom or Sukhumvit.
For those on a budget who also need a central location, a low-key backpacker community exists along Soi Kasem San 1 (say ‘gà·sirm’), across from the National Stadium.
BUDGET & MIDRANGE
Bed & Breakfast Inn (Map; 0 2215 3004; Soi Kasem San 1; s/d incl breakfast 600/700B; Skytrain National Stadium, klorng taxi to Tha Ratchathewi; ) This mazelike guesthouse has standard but comfortable rooms. Rates, not surprisingly, include breakfast.
A-One Inn (Map; 0 2215 3029; www.aoneinn.com; 25/13-15 Soi Kasem San 1; d from 650B; Skytrain National Stadium, klorng taxi to Tha Ratchathewi; ) The lobby is a bit messy here, but a peek into the rooms proves that they are well proportioned and good value. A-One sees a lot of return business.
Wendy House (Map; 0 2214 1149; www.wendyguesthouse.com; 36/2 Soi Kasem San 1; d incl breakfast from 1000B; Skytrain National Stadium, klorng taxi to Tha Ratchathewi; ) The rooms here are small and basic, but well stocked (TV, fridge) for this price range. There’s a cafe downstairs and service is exceedingly friendly.
Reno Hotel (Map; 0 2215 0026; www.renohotel.co.th; 40 Soi Kasem San 1; d 1280-1650B; Skytrain National Stadium, klorng taxi to Tha Ratchathewi; ) Only some of the rooms reflect the renovations evident in the lobby and exterior, but the cafe and classic pool of this Vietnam War–era vet still cling to the past.
Golden House (Map; 0 2252 9535; www.goldenhouses.net; 1025/5-9 Th Ploenchit; d 1650B; Skytrain Chitlom; ) With parquet flooring and built-in wooden furniture, the 27 rooms here are more like modern Thai condos than hotel rooms. The beds are huge, but just like at Thai condos they have the potential to sag. Golden House is located just steps from Skytrain Chitlom; look for the sign that says VIP Guest House.
Indra Regent Hotel (Map; 0 2208 0022-33; www.indrahotel.com; 120/126 Th Ratchaprarop; d from 2720B; Skytrain Chitlom, klorng taxi to Tha Pratunam; ) This soot-stained ’70s-era box doesn’t look like much from the outside, but the interior offers one of the better-value stays in this price range. Junior suites are touted as the best buys.
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BANGKOK’S GRANDE DAME
The Oriental Hotel started out as a roughshod boarding house for European seafarers in the late 19th century, but was transformed into an aristocratic magnet by Hans Niels Anderson, the founder of the formidable East Asiatic Company (which operated between Bangkok and Copenhagen). He hired an Italian designer to build what is now known as the Authors’ Wing, which was the city’s most elaborate secular building; all other grand architecture at the time was commissioned by the king.
With a dramatic setting beside Mae Nam Chao Phraya, the hotel has gained its reputation from its famous guests. A Polish-born sailor named Joseph Conrad stayed here in between nautical jobs in 1888. W Somerset Maugham stumbled into the hotel with an advanced case of malaria contracted during his overland journey from Burma. In his feverish state, he heard the German manager arguing with the doctor about how a death in the hotel would hurt business.