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Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [114]

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www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com; 250 Th Sukhumvit; r from 8700B; Skytrain Asoke, Metro Sukhumvit; ) This business-oriented hotel offers some of the most spacious rooms in town and fills them with a generous array of amenities. An elevated walkway connecting the hotel to Asoke Skytrain station makes this the convenient choice for those on generous expense accounts.

Ma Du Zi (Map; 0 2615 6400; www.maduzihotel.com; cnr Th Ratchadapisek & Soi 16, Th Sukhumvit; r 17,200-33,000B; Skytrain Asoke, Metro Sukhumvit; ) The name is Thai for ‘come take a look’, somewhat of a misnomer for this reservations-only, no walk-ins hotel. If you’ve gained access, behind the gate you’ll find an attractive midsized hotel steeped in dark, chic tones and designs. We fancied the immense bathrooms, with a walk-in tub and minimalist shower. There’s no pool, but the rack rate includes everything from airport transfer, breakfast and dinner to domestic and international calls.

Lumphini Park & Th Phra Ram IV

If you were hitting the Asian hippie trail back in the 1970s, you would have laid your love beads at a guesthouse in Soi Ngam Duphli, off Th Phra Ram IV, not too far from Lumphini Park. Despite the decades that have passed, it’s still a good area to go to for supercheap accommodation, particularly along Soi Sri Bamphen. And getting there has been made even easier by the Metro stop at Lumphini.

Café des Arts Guest House (Map; 0 2679 8438; 27/39 Soi Sri Bamphen; fan/air-con 350/450B; Metro Lumphini; ) Run by a French/Thai couple, there’s seemingly no cafe (nor art) here, but rather a downstairs Korean barbecue restaurant and eight simple rooms upstairs.

Malaysia Hotel (Map; 0 2679 7127; www.malaysiahotelbkk.com; 54 Soi Ngam Duphli; d 798-998B; Metro Lumphini; ) The Malaysia was once Bangkok’s most famous budget lodge and even gave shelter to Maureen and Tony Wheeler on their maiden shoestring trip through Southeast Asia. Our sources tell us that the couple stay elsewhere when in Bangkok nowadays, but the Malaysia is still a good choice for the rest of us for its fair prices and frozen-in-time atmosphere.

Penguin House (Map; 0 2679 9991; www.geocities.com/penguinhouses; 27/23 Soi Sri Bamphen; r 800-950B, 2-night minimum; Metro Lumphini; ) The oddly named Penguin is a breath of fresh air in this area of tired old-timers. Rear rooms will be quieter, and there are a couple of interior rooms that sleep two couples. Weekly and monthly rates are also available.

All Seasons Sathorn (Map; 0 2343 6333; www.allseasons-sathorn.com; 31 Th Sathon Tai; r 1800-2500B; Metro Lumphini; ) The former King’s Hotel has been reborn as this modern attractive choice, right in the middle of the embassy district. The primary colours and bold lines of the design scheme make up for the lack of natural light in some rooms. To see what the hotel (and Th Sathon) used to look like, check out the photos in the dining room.

Ibis Sathon (Map; 0 2659 2888; Soi Ngam Duphli; r incl breakfast 2040B; Metro Lumphini; ) Business-friendly Ibis delivers comfort and convenience without corporate expense-account prices.

Metropolitan (Map; 0 2625 3333; www.metropolitan.como.bz; 27 Th Sathon Tai, r incl breakfast US$145-185, ste incl breakfast US$210-2000; Metro Lumphini; ) The exterior of the former YMCA has changed relatively little, but a peek inside reveals Bangkok’s sleekest hotel. Urban minimalism rules here, except where it concerns the size of the two-storey suites. Breakfast is either American or ‘organic’, and attached Cy’an (Click here) is among Bangkok’s best upscale restaurants.

Sukhothai Hotel (Map; 0 2344 8888; www.sukhothai.com; 13/3 Th Sathon Tai; r 9500-10,700B, ste 12,900-100,000B; Metro Lumphini; ) As the name suggests, this hotel employs brick stupas, courtyards and antique sculptures to create a historical, temple-like atmosphere. The rooms are exquisitely decorated and have hardwood floors and war-room-sized bathrooms.

Central Bangkok

Many of the following hotels lie outside our neat neighbourhood designations, so they often require a little more effort to reach. This

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