Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [116]
Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa (Map; 0 2476 0022; www.marriott.com; 257/1-3 Th Charoen Nakhon, Thonburi; d from 5800B; hotel shuttle boat from Tha Sathon & Tha Oriental; ) Located south of the city on the banks of Mae Nam Chao Phraya, ‘resort’ is in this case at least an accurate moniker for this expansive, relax-oriented hotel. Lest the gardens and pools give the impression you’re in another province (well, technically you are), you’re easily connected to the rest of Bangkok by a hotel-operated shuttle boat to Saphan Taksin.
EATING
Invariably the safest of Bangkok’s infamous carnal pleasures, food is serious business in this city. Attracting hungry visitors from across the globe, Bangkok’s eats also draw natives from disparate ends of the city, happy to brave traffic or floods for a bowl of noodles or a plate of rice.
The selection is enormous, with eating places in Bangkok ranging from wheeled carts that set up shop on a daily basis to chic dining rooms in five-star hotels. In our experience the tastiest eats are generally found somewhere in-between, at family-run shophouse restaurants serving a limited repertoire of dishes.
The influences are also vast, and you’ll find everything from Thai-Chinese to Thai-Muslim, not to mention most regional Thai cuisines. And if at some point you do tire of gŏo·ay ĕe·o (rice noodles) and curries, Bangkok has an ever-expanding selection of high-quality international restaurants, encompassing everything from hole-in-the-wall French bistros to authentic Japanese ramen houses.
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Ko Ratanakosin & Banglamphu
Bangkok’s royal district has an abundance of sights but a dearth of restaurants – a pity, considering the potential views.
Despite its proximity to the faux pàt tai and tame ôm yam of Th Khao San, Banglamphu is one of the city’s most legendary eating areas. Decades old restaurants and legendary hawkers line the streets in this leafy corner of Olde Bangkok, and you could easily spend an entire day grazing the southern end of Th Tanao alone.
Although you’d be wisest to get your domestic nosh away from the main drag, the foreign influence on Th Khao San has led to a few import standouts.
THAI
Nang Loeng Market (Map; Btw Soi 8-10, Th Nakhon Sawan; 10am-2pm Mon-Sat; bus 72) Dating back to 1899, this atmospheric market is primarily associated with Thai sweets, but at lunchtime it’s also an excellent place to fill up on savouries. Try a bowl of handmade egg noodles at Rung Reuang or the wonderful curries across the way at Ratana.
Chote Chitr (Map; 0 2221 4082; 146 Th Phraeng Phuthon; dishes 30-200B; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat; bus 15, klorng taxi to Tha Phan Fah) This third-generation shophouse restaurant boasting just six tables is a true Bangkok foodie landmark. The kitchen can be inconsistent, but when they’re on, dishes like mèe gròrp (crispy fried noodles) and yam tòoa ploo (wing-bean salad) are in a class of their own.
Kim Leng (no roman-script sign; Map; 0 2622 2062; 158-160 Th Tanao; dishes 40-100B; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat; bus 15, klorng taxi to Tha Phan Fah) This tiny family-run restaurant specialises in the dishes of central Thailand. The grumpy owner doesn’t speak English, so simply point at whatever looks good from the well-stocked glass case, or refer to the English-language menu.
Pan (Map; 0 83817 4227; Th Rambutri; dishes 50-90B; 11.30am-10pm; bus 30, 53, 506, river ferry Tha Phra Athit) If you’re looking for authentic Thai, but don’t want to stray far from Th Khao San, this streetside eatery is your best bet. Simply look for the overflowing tray of raw ingredients, point to whatever looks tasty, and Pan will fry it up for you.
Rub Aroon (Map; 0 2622 2312; 310-312 Th Maharat; dishes 60-95B; 8am-6pm; river ferry Tha Tien) Strategically located across from Wat Pho, this tastefully restored shophouse is the perfect temple-exploring pit stop. Basic one-plate dishes