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During the vegetarian festival in October, the whole city goes mad for tofu (see the boxed text, opposite). Stalls and restaurants indicate their nonmeat menu with yellow banners; Chinatown has the highest concentration of stalls.

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Ricky’s Coffeeshop (Map; 0 2629 0509; 18 Th Phra Athit; dishes 50-180B; 8am-11pm; river ferry Tha Phra Athit) This cosy cafe has moved – a door down – and now serves Mexican food in addition to authentic coffee drinks, hearty breakfasts and baguette sandwiches.

Oh My Cod! (Map; 0 2282 6553; 95d Rambuttri Village Inn, Soi Rambuttri Ι; dishes 70-200B; breakfast, lunch & dinner; bus 30, 53, 506, river ferry Tha Phra Athit) Fish and chips, the signature dish here, takes the form of an immense, puffy fillet accompanied by thick-cut chips and peas. Breakfast is served all day, and parched Anglophiles can enjoy a proper cuppa in the sunny courtyard dining area.

Ann’s Sweet (Map; 0 86889 1383; 138 Th Phra Athit; dishes 75-150B; 11.30am-8pm; bus 53, 506, river ferry Tha Phra Athit) Ann, a native of Bangkok and a graduate of the Cordon Bleu cooking program, makes some of the most authentic Western-style cakes you’ll find anywhere in town. Lavazza coffee and iBerry ice creams fill out the tasty menu.

Deck (Map; 0 2221 9158; Arun Residence, 36-38 Soi Pratu Nok Yung, Th Maharat; dishes 170-690B; lunch & dinner; river ferry Tha Tien) The Deck’s claim to fame is its commanding views over Wat Arun, but the restaurant’s short but diverse menu, ranging from duck confit to Thai-style pomelo salad, sweetens the pot. After dinner, drinks are served at the hotel’s open-air rooftop bar.

Chinatown & Phahurat

When you mention Chinatown, most Bangkokians immediately dream of street food, the best of which we’ve included in our ‘Eats Walk’ on Click here. The area is also famous as ground zero for the yearly Vegetarian Festival (see the boxed text, opposite). On the western side of the neighbourhood is Bangkok’s Little India, the fabric district of Phahurat, filled with small Indian and Nepali restaurants tucked into the soi off Th Chakraphet.

Old Siam Plaza (Map; ground fl, Old Siam Plaza, cnr Th Phahurat & Th Triphet; dishes 15-50B; lunch; river ferry Tha Saphan Phut) Sugar junkies, be sure to include this stop on your Bangkok eating itinerary. The ground floor of this shopping centre is a candyland of traditional Thai sweets and snacks, most made right before your eyes.

Royal India (Map; 0 2221 6565; 392/1 Th Chakraphet; dishes 40-130B; lunch & dinner; river ferry Tha Saphan Phut) Yes, we realise that this legendary hole in the wall has been in every edition of our guide since the beginning, but after all these years it’s still the most reliable place to eat in Bangkok’s Little India. Try any of the delicious breads or rich curries, and don’t forget to finish with a homemade Punjabi sweet.

Tang Jai Yuu (no roman-script sign; Map; 0 2224 2167; 85-89 Th Yaowaphanit; dishes 120-500B; lunch & dinnner; Metro Hualamphong, river ferry Tha Ratchawong) In Bangkok, policemen and big-haired women are usually a tip-off for good eats, not suspicious activity. This longstanding fave is great for a decadent night out, and specialises in Teo Chew and Chinese-Thai specialties with an emphasis on seafood.

Silom, Sathon & Riverside

Th Silom has a bit of everything, from truly old-skool Thai to some of the city’s best upscale international dining. The western end of the street, near the Chao Phraya River, is home to several Indian and Thai-Muslim restaurants.

THAI

Soi 10 Food Centres (Map; Soi 10, Th Silom; dishes 20-60B; lunch Mon-Fri; Skytrain Sala Daeng, Metro Silom) These two adjacent hangarlike buildings tucked behind Soi 10 are the main lunchtime fuelling stations for this area’s office staff. Choices range from southern-style kôw gaang (point-and-choose curries ladled over rice) to virtually every form of Thai noodle.

Khrua Aroy Aroy (Map; 0 2635 2365; Th Pan; dishes 30-70B; 6am-6pm; Skytrain Surasak) It can be crowded and hot, but Khrua Aroy Aroy (‘Delicious Delicious Kitchen’) rarely fails to live