Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [120]
At the end of the alley you’ll see a gentleman frying noodles with a brass wok and a spoon. He’s making gŏo·ay ðĕeo kôoa gaÌi (), a simple but delicious dish of rice noodles fried with chicken, egg and garlic oil.
Upon emerging at Th Yaowarat, cross over to the busy market area directly across the street. The first vendor on the right, Nay Lék Uan ( Map; 0 2224 3450; Soi 11, Th Yaowarat), is among the most popular stalls in Bangkok, and sells gŏo·ay jáp nám si, a thick, intensely peppery broth containing noodles and pork offal. There are several more stalls here, selling everything from pàt tai to satay.
Walk east down Th Yaowarat, and on the corner of Th Yaowaphanit and Th Yaowarat you’ll see a stall with yellow noodles and barbecued pork. This is Mangkorn Khâo ( Map; 0 2682 2352), a respected vendor of bà·mèe, Chinese-style wheat noodles, and delicious wontons.
Keep walking down Th Yaowarat and you’ll be back to where you started. By now the two opposing seafood places, Lek & Rut (Map; 0 81637 5039) and T&K (Map; 0 2223 4519) should be buzzing. You could join the tourists for grilled prawns and fried rice, but hopefully by this point you’ve had your fill of what Chinatown really has to offer.
* * *
Souvlaki (Map; 0 2632 9967; 114/4 Soi 4, Th Silom; dishes 120-280B; lunch & dinner; Skytrain Sala Daeng, Metro Silom) Greek is among Bangkok’s most elusive cuisines, and this new eatery has finally brought Hellenic flava to town. The menu runs the predictable gamut of Greek-style fast food and mezze, but also offers interesting daily specials. Warning: serving sizes are truly Olympian.
Scoozi (Map; 0 2234 6999; 174 Th Surawong; dishes 150-350B; lunch & dinner; Skytrain Chong Nonsi) Now boasting several locations across Bangkok, we still think the wood-fired pizzas taste best at this, the original branch. However, if you find yourself elsewhere with a dough craving, you can also get your pizza pie on at Th Khao San (Map; 0 2280 5280; 201 Soi Sunset) and Thonglor (Map; 0 2391 5113; Fenix Thonglor, Soi 1, Soi 55/Thong Lor, Th Sukhumvit).
Le Bouchon (Map; 0 2234 9109; Soi 2, Th Patpong; dishes 150-840B; noon-3pm & 6pm-midnight; Skytrain Sala Daeng, Metro Lumphini) The Patpong address alone is a tip-off that this is anything but haute cuisine. Instead, this homey bistro is the kind of place where Bangkok’s French population comes to forget where they really are. Choose your dishes from the chalkboard menu toted around by the cheery staff, but it’d be a shame to miss the garlicky frogs’ legs or savoury foie gras pâté.
Le Normandie (Map; 0 2659 9000; www.mandarinoriental.com; 48 Soi Oriental/38, Th Charoen Krung; dishes 750-3900B; lunch & dinner; hotel shuttle boat from Tha Sathon/Central Pier) When it opened in 1962, Le Normandie was Bangkok’s only destination for fine dining. Despite the passing of more than four decades, it wouldn’t be entirely incorrect to say that little has changed. As the menu, which boasts an entire foie gras section, suggests, this is classic French cuisine, and no fewer than 20 three-starred Michelin chefs have helped to prepare it over the years. To see these influences firsthand, try the degustation menu (4400B), which is also available with a selection of wines (7400B).
Siam Square & Pratunam
If you find yourself hungry in this part of central Bangkok, you’re largely at the mercy of shopping-mall food courts and chain restaurants. However, this is still Thailand, and if you can ignore the prefabricated atmosphere, the food can often be quite good. If you don’t need air-conditioning, stop by the numerous food stalls (Map; btwn Sois 5 & 6, Siam Sq; dishes 30-40B; 10am-2pm; Skytrain Siam) at Siam Square for a quick Thai lunch.
Sanguan Sri (Map; 0 2252 7637; 59/1 Th Withayu/Wireless Rd; dishes 60-150B; 10am-3pm Mon-Sat;