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Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [127]

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day, but dead at night.

Café Trio (Map; 0 2252 6572; 36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan; Skytrain Chitlom) Spend an evening at this cosy jazz bar and you’ll go home feeling like a local. Live music is featured on an irregular basis –best to call ahead to find out who and when.

Sukhumvit

Tuba (Map; 0 2622 0708; 30 Ekamai Soi 21, Soi Ekamai/63, Th Sukhumvit; Skytrain Ekamai) Part storage room for over-the-top vintage furniture, part friendly local boozer, this bizarre bar certainly doesn’t lack in character. Indulge in a whole bottle for once, and don’t miss the delicious chicken wings.

Spring (Map; 0 2392 2747; 199 Soi Promsri 2, Soi Phrompong/39, Th Sukhumvit; Skytrain Phrom Phong) Although not technically a bar, the expansive lawn of this smartly reconverted 1970s-era house is probably the only chance you’ll ever have to witness Bangkok’s fair and beautiful willingly exposing themselves to the elements.

Cheap Charlie’s (Map; Soi 11, Th Sukhumvit; Mon-Sat; Skytrain Nana) There’s never enough seating, and the design concept is best classified as ‘junkyard’, but on most nights this chummy open-air beer corner is a great place to meet everybody, from package tourists to resident English teachers.

Bull’s Head (Map; 0 2259 4444; 595/10-11 Soi 33/1, Th Sukhumvit; Skytrain Phrom Phong) Bangkok boasts several English-style pubs, and this is probably the most ‘authentic’ of the lot. With friendly management and staff, and more events and activities than a summer camp, it’s also a good place to meet people, particularly those of the British persuasion.

HOBS (House of Beers; Map; 0 2392 3513; 522/3 Soi 16, Soi Thong Lor/55, Th Sukhumvit; Skytrain Thong Lo) Arguably the word’s best brews, Belgian beers have been fleetingly available around Bangkok for a while now, but have found a permanent home at this new pub. Be sure to accompany your beer with a bowl of crispy frites, served here Belgian-style with mayonnaise.

ENTERTAINMENT

Shame on you if you find yourself bored in Bangkok. And even more shame if you think the only entertainment options involve the word ‘go-go’. Nowadays Bangkok’s nightlife is as diverse as that of virtually any modern city – but a lot cheaper. Even if you’re usually in bed by 9pm, Bangkok still offers interesting postdinner diversions, from flash cinemas to traditional cultural performances.


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Live Music

Music is an essential element of a Thai night out, and just about every pub worth its salted peanuts has a house band of varying quality. For the most part this means perky Thai pop covers or tired international standards (if you’ve left Bangkok without having heard a live version of ‘Hotel California’, well, you haven’t really been to Bangkok), but an increasing number of places are starting to deviate from the norm with quirky and/or inspired bands and performances. Nightly line-ups at smaller venues can be found online at Bangkok Gig Guide (www.bangkokgigguide.com).

Brick Bar (Map; 0 2629 4477; basement, Buddy Lodge, 265 Th Khao San; river ferry Tha Phra Athit) This cavelike pub hosts a nightly revolving cast of live music for an almost exclusively Thai crowd. Come before midnight, wedge yourself into a table a few inches from the horn section, and lose it to Teddy Ska, one of the most energetic live acts in town.

Living Room (Map; 02 649 8888; Level I, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Th Sukhumvit; Skytrain Asoke, Metro Sukhumvit) Don’t let looks deceive you; every night this bland hotel lounge transforms into the city’s best venue for live jazz. Contact ahead of time to see which sax master or hide hitter is currently in town.

Parking Toys (Map; 0 2907 2228; 17/22 Soi Mayalap, Kaset-Navamin Hwy) Essentially a rambling shed stuffed with vintage furniture, Parking Toys hosts an eclectic revolving cast of fun bands ranging in genre from acoustic/classical ensembles to electro-funk jam acts. To get here, take a taxi heading north from Mo Chit Skytrain station and tell the driver to take you to Th Kaset-Navamin. Immediately upon passing the second stop light on this road, look for

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