Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [134]
Central Chit Lom (Map; 0 2655 1444; 1027 Th Ploenchit; Skytrain Chitlom) Generally regarded as the all-round best for quality and selection, Central has 13 branches in Bangkok in addition to this chi-chi flagship. If you’re curious about local hooks, look for Thai designers such as Tube and the Thai cosmetic brand Erb.
Emporium Shopping Centre (Map; 622 Th Sukhumvit, cnr Soi 24; Skytrain Phrom Phong) You might not have access to the beautiful people’s nightlife scene, but you can observe their spending rituals at this temple to red hot and classic cool. Robust expat salaries and trust funds dwindle amid Prada, Miu Miu, Chanel and Thai brands such as Greyhound and Propaganda.
Pantip Plaza (Map; 604 Th Petchaburi; Skytrain Ratchathewi) North of Siam Square, this is five storeys of computer and software stores ranging from legit to flea market. Many locals come here to buy ‘pirated’ software and computer peripherals, but the crowds and touts (‘DVD sex?’) make it among the more tiring shopping experiences in town.
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BARGAINING 101
Many of your purchases in Bangkok will involve an ancient skill that has long been abandoned in the West: bargaining. Contrary to what you’ll see on a daily basis on Th Khao San, bargaining (in Thai, gahn òr rahkah) is not a terse exchange of numbers and animosity. Rather, bargaining Thai style is a generally friendly transaction where two people try to agree on a price that is fair to both of them.
The first rule to bargaining is to have a general idea of the price. Ask around at a few vendors to get a rough notion. When you’re ready to buy, it’s generally a good strategy to start at 50% of the asking price and work up from there. If you’re buying several of an item, you have much more leverage to request and receive a lower price. If the seller immediately agrees to your first price you’re probably paying too much, but it’s bad form to bargain further at this point. In general, keeping a friendly, flexible demeanour throughout the transaction will almost always work in your favour. And remember, only begin bargaining if you’re really planning on buying the item. Most importantly, there’s simply no point in getting angry or upset over a few baht. The locals, who inevitably have less money than you, never do this.
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Fashion & Textiles
In recent years Bangkok has become something of a fashion-conscious and, increasingly, fashion-generating city. Local designers such as senada*, Fly Now and Tango have shown that the city harbours a style scene that can compete on the international catwalk. More affordable looks are exhibited by the city’s trendy teens who strut their distinctive ‘Bangkok’ look in the various shopping areas.
Siam Square (Map; btwn Th Phra Ram I & Th Phayathai, Skytrain Siam) This low-slung commercial universe is a network of some 12 soi lined with trendy, fly-by-night boutiques, many of which are the first ventures of young designers. It’s a great place to pick up designs you’re guaranteed not to find anywhere else, not to mention the best place for urban naturalists to observe Bangkok teens in their natural habitat.
It’s Happened to be a Closet (Map; 0 2629 5271; 32 Th Khao San; 1-11pm; river ferry Tha Phra Athit) Garbled grammar aside, this is a brilliant place to stock up on locally designed and made togs. Bright colours and bold patterns rule and the eclectic shop even features a restaurant and cafe, a hair and nail salon, and private rooms for movie viewing. The forebodingly black complex is located in the same off-street courtyard as Tom Yam Kung restaurant .
Fly Now (Map; 0 2656 1359; 2nd fl, Gaysorn Plaza, cnr Th Ploenchit & Th Ratchadamri; Skytrain Chitlom) A longstanding leader in Bangkok’s home-grown fashion scene, Fly Now creates feminine couture that has caught the eyes of several international shows. Also available at Siam Center (Click here)