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By Root 4621 0

more than 2000 items, the fresh flavours of Thai cuisine are not reflected in the wares of a typical Bangkok 7-Eleven, whose food selections are even junkier than those of its counterparts in the West. Like all shops in Thailand, alcohol is only available from 11am to 2pm and 5pm to 11pm, and branches of 7-Eleven located near hospitals, temples and schools do not sell alcohol or cigarettes at all (but do continue to sell unhealthy snack food).

We love 7-Eleven for the wide selection of drinks, a godsend in sweltering Bangkok. You can conveniently pay most of your bills at the Service Counter, and all manner of phone cards, prophylactics and ‘literature’ (although, oddly, not most newspapers) are also available. And sometimes the blast of air-conditioning alone is enough reason to stop by. But our single favourite 7-Eleven item must be the dirt-cheap chilled scented towels for wiping away the accumulated grime and sweat before your next appointment.

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Gems & Jewellery

Although it is common wisdom that Thailand is a bonanza for gems and jewellery, the risk of a rip-off is much greater than finding a bargain. For details on the numerous scams that exist see the boxed text, Click here.

Two longstanding and reputable gem vendors:

Johnny’s Gems (Map; 0 2224 4065; 199 Th Fuang Nakhon; Mon-Sat; river ferry Tha Saphan Phut) A long-time favourite of Bangkok expats, Johnny’s Gems is a reliable name in an unreliable business.

Uthai’s Gems (Map; 02 253 8582; 28/7 Soi Ruam Rudi; Mon-Sat; Skytrain Ploenchit) With 40 years in the business, Uthai’s fixed prices and good service, including a money-back guarantee, make him a popular choice among expats.

Markets

Although air-conditioned malls have better PR departments, open-air markets are the true face of commercial Bangkok, and are where you’ll find the best bargains.

ALL-PURPOSE MARKETS

Among the largest markets in the world, Chatuchak Weekend Market (Talat Nat Jatujak; Map; 9am-6pm Sat & Sun; Skytrain Mo Chit, Metro Chatuchak Park) seems to unite everything buyable, from used vintage sneakers to baby squirrels. JJ, as it’s also known, is the ideal place to finally pick up those gifts for people back home, not to mention a pretty item or two for your own home. The market is roughly divided into thematic sections, the best guide to these being Nancy Chandler’s Map of Bangkok. Because Chatuchak is a Thai institution, food also plays a significant role, and there are numerous drinks and snack vendors, and several good restaurants on the outside edges of the market. Plan to spend a full day, as there’s plenty to see, do and buy. But come early, ideally around 9am to 10am, to beat the crowds and the heat.

There is an information centre and a bank with ATMs and foreign-exchange booths at the Chatuchak Park offices, near the northern end of the market’s Soi 1, Soi 2 and Soi 3. Schematic maps and toilets are located throughout the market.

There are a few vendors out on weekday mornings, and a daily vegetable, plant and flower market opposite the market’s southern side. One section of the latter, known as the Or Tor Kor Market, sells fantastically gargantuan fruit and seafood, and has a decent food court as well.

Pak Khlong Market (Map; Th Chakkaphet & Th Atsadang; 24hr; river ferry Tha Saphan Phut) Every night this market near the Chao Phraya River becomes the city’s largest depot for wholesale flowers. Arrive as late as you’re willing to stay up, and be sure to take a camera, as the technicolour blur of roses, lotuses and daisies on the move is a sight to behold. During the day, Pak Khlong is a wholesale vegetable market.

Vespa Market (Map; cnr Th Ratchadaphisek & Th Lad Phrao, Greater Bangkok; 6pm-midnight Sat; Metro Lat Phrao) Uniting urban cowboys, hip-hoppers, wannabe mods and pissed-off punks, this expansive outdoor market is a virtual melting pot of Bangkok youth subculture. The original emphasis was on vintage vehicles, but quirky T-shirts, used sneakers and modern antiques form the bulk of this fun market.

Nonthaburi Market (Map; Tha Nam Non, Nonthaburi; 5am-8am;