Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [143]
If you’re not dissuaded, cars and motorcycles can be rented throughout town, including through such international chains as Avis (Map; 0 2255 5300; 2/12 Th Withayu/Wireless Rd) or local chains such as Thai Rent A Car (Map; 0 2737 8787; www.thairentacar.com; Th Petchaburi Tat Mai), which has a branch at Suvarnabhumi International Airport. Rates start at around 1000B per day, excluding insurance. An International Driving Permit and passport are required for all rentals.
Metro (MRT)
Bangkok’s first subway line opened in 2004 and is operated by the Metropolitan Rapid Transit Authority (MRTA; 0 2624 5200; www.mrta.co.th). Thais call the metro rót fai fáh âi din.
The 20km Blue Line goes from Hualamphong train station to Bang Sue, stopping at 18 stations, including four that link up with the Skytrain, and one that connects with the airport link. Fares cost 15B to 39B; child and concession fares can be bought at ticket windows. The trains run every seven minutes from 6am to midnight, except during peak hours – 6am to 9am and 4.30pm to 7.30pm – when frequency is less than five minutes. The main advantage for visitors is that the Sukhumvit hotel area is now easily connected to Hualamphong train station and Chinatown at one end, and Chatuchak weekend market and the Northern bus terminal at the Bang Sue end.
There are ambitious plans to extend the MRT by more than four times its present length with stabs into northern Bangkok, Samut Prakan and Th Ramkhamhaeng, although if the airport link is anything to judge by, it could be a very long wait indeed.
Motorcycle Taxi
Forming the backdrop of modern Bangkok, teams of cheeky, numbered and vested motorcycle taxi drivers can be found at the end of just about every long street. A ride to the end (sùt soy) or mouth (àhk soy) of an average soi usually costs 10B to 15B. Longer journeys should be negotiated in advance, and can range from 20B to 100B.
Helmets are occasionally available upon request, although considering the way some of these guys drive, any body part is at risk. In particular, keep your legs tucked in – the drivers are used to carrying passengers with shorter legs than those of the average Westerner. Women wearing skirts should sit side-saddle and gather any extra cloth to avoid it catching in the wheel or drive chain.
Skytrain (BTS)
The most comfortable option for travelling in ‘new’ Bangkok (Silom, Sukhumvit and Siam Square) is the rót fai fáh (Skytrain), an elevated rail network that sails over the city’s notorious traffic jams. The Skytrain has revolutionised travel in the modern parts of Bangkok. Trips that would have taken an hour now take 15 minutes. Another advantage of the Skytrain is that it offers a pleasant bird’s-eye view of the city, allowing glimpses of greenery and historic architecture not visible at street level.
So far two lines have been built by the Bangkok Mass Transit System Skytrain (BTS; 0 2617 7300; www.bts.co.th) – the Sukhumvit and Silom lines.
The Sukhumvit Line terminates in the north of the city at the Mo Chit Skytrain station, next to Chatuchak Park, and follows Th Phayathai south to the Siam interchange station at Th Phra Ram I and then swings east along Th Ploenchit and Th Sukhumvit to terminate at the On Nut station, near Soi 81. Construction has already begun on an extension that will lengthen the line an additional 5.2km, terminating at Soi 107, Th Sukhumvit.
The Silom Line runs from the National Stadium station, near Siam Square, and soon after makes an abrupt turn to the southwest, continuing above Th Ratchadamri, down Th Silom to Th Narathiwat Ratchanakharin, then out Th Sathon until it terminates next to the foot of Saphan Taksin on the banks of Mae Nam Chao Phraya. Construction has already begun on a project to extend this line an additional 2km, crossing over the Mae Nam Chao Phraya and terminating in Thonburi.
Trains run frequently from 6am to midnight along both lines. Fares vary from