Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [146]
After working your way through what must be one of the most hectic fresh markets in the country, you’ll come to a vast harbour clogged with water hyacinth and wooden fishing boats. A few rusty cannons pointing towards the river testify to the town’s crumbling fort, built to protect the kingdom from sea invaders. Before the 17th century, the town was known as Tha Jiin (Chinese Pier) because of the large number of Chinese junks that called here. Board the ferry to Ban Laem (3B).
Arriving on the opposite side, the Jao Mae Kuan Im Shrine at Wat Chong Lom is a 9m-high fountain in the shape of the Mahayana Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. To get here, take a motorcycle taxi (10B) from the pier for the 2km ride to Wat Chong Lom. Conveniently located just beside the shrine is Tha Chalong, a train station with two afternoon departures for your next destination, Samut Songkhram (10B, 1.30pm and 4.40pm).
You’ll know you’ve reached Samut Songkhram when it looks like you’ve crashed into the town’s wet market. In fact, the market is held directly on the train tracks, and vendors must frantically scoop up their wares as the daily comes through.
At the mouth of Mae Nam Mae Klong is the province’s most famous tourist attraction: a bank of fossilised shells known as Don Hoi Lot. The shell bank can really only be seen during the dry season when the river surface has receded to its lowest level (typically April and May), but most visit for the perennial seafood restaurants that have been built at the edge of Don Hoi Lot. To get there you can hop into a sŏrng·ta·ou in front of Somdet Phra Phuttalertla Hospital at the intersection of Th Prasitwatthana and Th Thamnimit; the trip takes about 15 minutes (10B). Or you can charter a boat from the Mae Klong Market pier (tâh à·làht mâa glorng), a scenic journey of around 45 minutes (1000B).
To reach your final destination, charter a boat (1000B) or hop in a sŏrng·ta·ou (9B) near the market for the 10-minute ride to Amphawa. This canalside village has become a popular destination among city folk who seek out its quintessentially ‘Thai’ setting. This urban influx has sparked a few signs of gentrification, but the canals, old wooden buildings, atmospheric cafes and quaint waterborne traffic still retain heaps of charm. On weekends Amphawa puts on a reasonably authentic floating market (Click here). Alternatively, visit on a weekday and you’ll have the whole town to yourself.
Steps from Amphawa’s central footbridge is Wat Amphawan Chetiyaram, a graceful temple believed to be located at the place of the family home of Rama II, and which features accomplished murals. A short walk from the temple is King Buddhalertla (Phuttha Loet La) Naphalai Memorial Park (Km63, Route 35, Samut Songkhram; admission 20B; park 9am-6pm daily, museum 9am-6pm Wed-Sun), a museum housed in a collection of traditional central Thai houses set on 1.5 landscaped hectares. Dedicated to Rama II, the museum contains a library of rare Thai books and antiques from early-19th-century Siam.
At night long-tail boats zip through Amphawa’s sleeping waters to watch the star-like dance of the hìng hôy, fireflies. Several operators lead tours, including Niphaa (0 81422 0726), an experienced and well-equipped outfit located at the mouth of the canal, near the footbridge.
SLEEPING & EATING
Amphawa is popular with Bangkok’s weekend warriors, and it seems like virtually every other house has opened its doors to tourists in the form of homestays. These can range from little more than a mattress on the floor and a mosquito net to upscale guesthouse-style accommodation.
Baan Song Thai Plai Pong Pang (0 3475 7333; Amphawa) organises basic