Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [173]
The Lake Safari (www.insideasia.travel; adult/child 15,400/10,780B) houseboat leaves from Khao Laem National Park on a leisurely four-day trip to Sangkhlaburi. It’s also possible to privately hire the houseboat.
SI NAKHARIN NATIONAL PARK
The 1500-sq-km park (0 3451 6667; Si Sawat district) is dominated by the Si Nakharin Reservoir. The seven-tiered Huay Mae Khamin waterfall, close to the park entrance, is regarded as one of Thailand’s most beautiful falls. Flowing from limestone mountains, its waters drop seven levels along a route stretching more than 2km.
Camping and bungalows (0 2562 0760; www.dnp.go.th; r 150-600B, bungalows 900-2700B) are available.
Facilities at the park headquarters are good, but getting there can be tricky. The 40km dirt track leading to Si Nakharin requires a four-wheel drive. Another option is the car ferry, which crosses the reservoir between Tha Ong Sit in the east and Tha Kamnantuet in the west. The ferry runs from 6am to 8pm and leaves once it is full, or you can charter it for 300B per vehicle. After the 45-minute crossing, the park entrance is 7km from Tha Kamnantuet. It’s also possible to charter a speedboat on the east side from Tha Kradan pier (about 1500B).
CHALOEM RATANAKOSIN NATIONAL PARK
This relatively small park (0 3451 9606; Nong Preu district) has two main features: the caves of Tham Than Lot Noi and Tham Than Lot Yai. The former is fairly unremarkable but leads through to a pleasant 2.5km nature trail. At the end of the trail is Tham Than Lot Yai, an enormous cave with jagged stalactites.
At the Slider Waterfall it’s possible to aquaplane 20m from top to bottom during the rainy season, something Thai children do with great aplomb.
Wildlife here includes Asian koels, long-tailed cuckoos famed for their apparent fear of heights: they rarely go above 10m. Tigers, leopards, gibbons and elephants live deep in the dry evergreen forests.
Sleeping options include bungalows (0 2562 0760; www.dnp.go.th; tents 300-500B, r 700-2700B) and there is a restaurant on-site. Another option is to stay nearby with a Karen family at the Khao Lek Homestay (08 7110 8445; per person 150B).
Most visitors arrive at this 59-sq-km park by private transport along Hwy 3086. One bus a day (75B, three hours, 7.45am) makes the 97km journey from Kanchanaburi to Dahn Chang. Ask to get off at Muang Tow, which is 2km from the park. Buses depart from Muang Tow for Kanchanaburi at 6.20am, 8.15am and 12.25pm.
Thong Pha Phum
Surrounded by cloud-capped mountains and dense forests, this tiny town is a great place to sample a quieter way of life. Thong Pha Phum acts as a stop-off point for those heading north to Sangkhlaburi, and also as an access point for nearby natural attractions.
The town is simple to navigate as there is just one main street, and at its heart is the marketplace. Mae Nam Khwae Noi runs parallel to the east of the town. Facilities are somewhat sparse, although there are two banks and a handful of guesthouses.
The market is a good place to go for an early-morning mingle, where the food ranges from sugary snacks to noodles. At night the hilltop temple is illuminated and casts a golden glow over a town that has already gone to bed. To reach the temple during the day, follow the riverfront road towards the main highway, cross a footbridge and then walk up.
South of Thong Pha Phum town is Hin Dat Hot Springs (admission 40B; 6am-10pm). If the effects of the two geothermal pools aren’t enough, there is a massage pavilion nearby. You can soak in the pools or brave the adjacent fast-running stream. The bòr nám rórn (hot springs) are accessible via the Sangkhlaburi–Kanchanaburi bus on Hwy 323 (Km105 marker) and are 1km from the main road.
Along the same road as the hot springs is Nam Tok