Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [190]
For information about travelling to and from Rayong and Ban Phe, Click here.
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RAYONG
pop 106,700
The dusty strip of banks, markets and motorcycle dealerships that makes up Rayong holds few surprises. You’re most likely to be here for its location as a major transport interchange, but if you do arrive too late to secure an onward connection for a boat to Ko Samet, there are a couple of OK hotels.
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Information
Krung Thai Bank (144/53-55 Th Sukhumvit) One of several banks along Rayong’s main drag, Th Sukhumvit, with exchange services and ATMs.
Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) (0 3865 5420; tatyong@tat.or.th; 153/4 Th Sukhumvit; 8.30am-4.30pm) 7km east of Rayong on Hwy 3; a worthwhile stop if you have your own transport.
Sleeping & Eating
For cheap food, head to the market near the Thetsabanteung cinema or the restaurants and noodle shops along Th Taksin Maharat, just south of Wat Lum Mahachaichumphon. The food stalls around the bus station are a good choice as well.
Rayong President Hotel (0 3861 1307; Th Sukhumvit; r incl breakfast from 550B; ) There’s not much English spoken, but it’s friendly as well as quiet at night. From the bus station, cross to the other side of Th Sukhumvit. The hotel is down a side street that starts next to the Siam Commercial Bank; look for the sign.
Getting There & Around
Air-con buses to Rayong (132B, 2½ hours, every 30 minutes) leave Bangkok’s Eastern (Ekamai) bus terminal from 4am to 10pm. You can also get to the Northern (Mo Chit) and Southern terminals from Rayong – buses aren’t as frequent but the prices and times are similar. Buses to Chanthaburi from Rayong bus station cost 80B and take about 2½ hours. From Pattaya to Rayong, flag down a southbound bus near the corner of Th Sukhumvit and Th Pattaya Neua (ordinary/air-con 60/80B, 1½ hours). Blue srng·ta·ou from Rayong bus station to Ban Phe cost 25B and it’s a straightforward ride.
BAN PHE
The little port of Ban Phe is only on the map thanks to its role as a launch pad for nearby Ko Samet. However the busy seafood markets near the ferry terminal are worth a peek, and there are a few beaches nearby that are blissfully quiet during the week and make a nice detour.
Check email and make international calls at Tan Tan Cafe (08 1925 6713; Soi 2; per min 1B; 7.30am-7pm), down a lane opposite the ferry terminal. There’s an ATM outside the 7-Eleven store across from Christie’s Guesthouse. Opposite the pier, Blue Sky Books (0 3865 1885; Soi 1; 10am-7pm) has a good range of English-language titles, arranged by genre by a true bibliophile. The array of old Lonely Planet titles is positively archaeological.
The post office (Th Ban Phe), east of the Ban Phe pier, also has a Western Union for monetary emergencies.
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Sleeping
There are several hotels in Ban Phe in close proximity to the pier.
Hotel Diamond (0 3865 1826; fax 0 3865 1757; 286/12 Mu 2; r 350-500B; ) The rooms aren’t the cleanest, but they’re nothing the seasoned budget traveller can’t handle. Turn left out of the ferry terminal and go 150m down the main road. It’s fine for one night if you miss the last ferry.
Christie’s Guesthouse (0 3865 1976; fax 0 3865 2103; 280/92 Soi 1; r from 500B; ) With good rooms and a popular restaurant/bar downstairs, Christie’s is the most comfortable place near the pier. There’s also a good pizzeria and second-hand bookshop next door to keep you occupied while you wait for the ferry.
M@c Garden (0 3865 1150; 280/153 Th Ban Phe Mu 2; r 700B; ) A friendly new hotel that has beautiful teak bungalows (1200B) and smaller rooms that, though plain, are clean and new. Walk another 50m past the Hotel Diamond.
You can also rent tidy air-con