Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [192]
Sleeping
Ko Man Klang and Ko Man Nok offer upmarket accommodation packages that include boat transport from the mainland and all meals. These can only be arranged by phone in advance.
Mun Nork Island Resort (Bangkok office 0 2860 3025; www.munnorkislandresort.com; packages per person 3990-4390B; ) On Ko Man Nok, this classy resort has one-night, two-day packages in a variety of villas. The island is 15km off Pak Nam Prasae (53km east of Ban Phe).
Raya Island Resort (Bangkok office 0 2316 6717; 1-night, 2-day package per person 1400-2500B; ) This comfortable place has 15 bungalows and plenty of hush. It is 8km off Laem Mae Phim (27km east of Ban Phe), on Ko Man Klang.
Getting There & Away
Public transport to the pier departure points for Ko Man Klang and Ko Man Nok can be arranged in Ban Phe. On weekends and holidays there may be srng·ta·ou out to the piers; otherwise charter a vehicle from the market for around 100B one way – arrange a pick-up for your return.
KO SAMET
What happens when an island blessed with 14 white-sand beaches is just half a day’s travel from a Southeast Asian super city? If it’s pretty Ko Samet it becomes a weekend and holiday getaway for the good people of Bangkok – locals and expats alike. Toss in the fact that the island is unusually dry (it misses the worst impact of the monsoons) and you’ve got the geographic equivalent of Miss Popularity. Arrive on a weekend and you may be hit with rate hikes of up to 100%, and you could be ducking for cover from volleyballs and banana boats on certain beaches.
During the week the island relaxes and you’re more likely to discover what attracted the original backpackers a few short decades ago.
Ostensibly Ko Samet is a national park, but along the developed northeast coast it’s hard to see where your 200B park entrance fee is being invested. You’ll probably encounter garbage along the trails and beaches, always a disheartening experience. The island’s ecosystem is overtaxed and it is vital that visitors play their part by conserving water and being mindful of rubbish.
If you’re willing to venture further south, there are some undeniably gorgeous bays where development is still low-key and where a relaxed traveller vibe still exists.
Return to beginning of chapter
History
Ko Samet won a place in Thai literature when classical Thai poet Sunthorn Phu set part of his epic Phra Aphaimani here. The story follows the travails of a prince exiled to an undersea kingdom ruled by a lovesick female giant. A mermaid aids the prince in his escape to Ko Samet, where he defeats the giant by playing a magic flute. Formerly Ko Kaew Phitsadan or ‘Vast Jewel Isle’ – a reference to the abundant white sand – this island became known as Ko Samet or ‘Cajeput Isle’ after the cajeput tree that grows in abundance here, and which is highly valued for its essential oil and as firewood throughout Southeast Asia. Locally, the samet tree has also been used in boat building.
Orientation
Ko Samet is vaguely T-shaped. The best beaches (and most developed) are located on the island’s eastern shore. A few upmarket hotels are on the west coast, clustered around pretty Ao Prao. Na Dan, the island’s biggest village and the terminus for the Ban Phe ferry, is on the north coast, facing the mainland. A few low-key sleeping options can be found on the north coast; it’s nice and quiet but the beaches are not that great.
Information
Ko Samet is a national park and the entrance fee (adult/child 200/100B) is collected at the main National Parks office – your srng·ta·ou from the pier will stop at the gates. Hold on to your ticket for later inspections.
There are several ATMs on Ko Samet. One is at the pier and another two are near the National Parks main office.
There are internet