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provinces, the hot season (March to May) and early rainy season (June to July) are not bad either, as temperatures are moderate at higher elevations. Northeastern and central Thailand, on the other hand, are best avoided from March to May, when temperatures may climb over 40°C. Because temperatures are more even year-round in the south (because it’s closer to the equator), the beaches and islands of southern Thailand are a good choice for respite when the rest of Thailand is miserably hot.

Thailand’s peak tourist season runs from November to late March, with secondary peaks in July and August. If you want to avoid crowds and take advantage of discounted room rates, consider travelling during the least crowded months (typically April to June, September and October).

Although the rainy season (roughly July to October) gets a bad reputation, there are some bonuses: temperatures tend to be cooler, tourists are fewer and the landscape is lush and green. Depending on the region and the month, the rains might be hour-long downpours in the afternoon. October, however, tends to be the wettest month.

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HOW MUCH?

2nd-class air-con sleeper train, Bangkok to Surat Thani 758-848B

Beach bungalow on Ko Pha-Ngan 350-500B

One-day Thai cooking course in Chiang Mai 900B

National park admission 200B

Dinner for two at a midrange restaurant 300-500B

See also the Lonely Planet Index, inside front cover.

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COSTS & MONEY

Thailand is an inexpensive country to visit thanks to advantageous foreign currency exchanges and an affordable standard of living. Those on a budget should be able to get by on about 600B to 700B per day outside Bangkok and the major beach islands. This amount covers basic food, guesthouse accommodation and local transport but excludes all-night beer binges, tours, long-distance transport or vehicle hire. Travellers with more money to spend will find that for around 1500B or more per day life can be quite comfortable.

Bangkok is a good place to splurge on a hotel for recovery from a long flight or to celebrate returning to ‘civilisation’. In the provinces, guesthouses tend to be the best value even for bigger budgets. Market meals are cheaper and tastier than guesthouse fare but you’ll need a little local language and an adventurous stomach.

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DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT…

Pack light wash-and-wear clothes, plus a pullover (sweater) or light jacket for chilly bus rides and the northern mountains. Slip-on shoes or sandals are handy. Laundry is cheap in Thailand, so you only need to travel with a week’s supply of clothes.

You can buy toothpaste, soap and most other toiletries almost anywhere in Thailand. International stores like Boots tend to carry tampons and antiperspirants strong enough to fight the tropical malady. Click here for a list of recommended medical items.

Other handy items include: a small torch (flashlight), sarong (dries better than a towel), waterproof money/passport container (for swimming outings), earplugs and sunscreen (high SPFs are not widely available outside of big cities).

Be sure to check government travel advisories for Thailand before you leave. See Dangers & Annoyances (Click here) for general security issues.

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TOP PICKS

One of the best ways to get ready for a Thailand tour is to start dreaming about this faraway land. Here are a few highlights:

BEST ECOTOURISM SPOTS

Chiang Rai – the centre for hill-tribe trekking with a social justice hook; some trekking companies employ hill-tribe guides or foster community development programs (Click here)

Northeastern Thailand – loads of village homestays are sprouting up all over this rural landscape to put you in touch with the people and rice paddies (Click here)

Chiang Mai – a pretty northern town that is evolving into a cycling mecca for in-town touring and off-roading (Click here)

BEST SCENIC JOURNEYS

Overnight ferry from Chumphon to Ko Tao – it’s just a simple fishing boat with mats on the upper deck and winking stars overhead