Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [204]
The fast developing Lonely Beach needs a new English name, and is the island’s centre for nightlife for younger travellers. However, there are still quieter bays with relatively deserted beaches just north and south of Lonely Beach’s nocturnal fun. Bang Bao is a small fishing settlement in the far south with several places to stay, good seafood restaurants and a busy pier with dive shops, boat transport companies and souvenir shops. Development is impending though, and a luxury condo complex was being built when we visited.
The east coast is largely undeveloped with only a few low-key resorts. Hat Yao is one of the island’s best, though a few new bungalow operations are drawing attention to this once-isolated stretch. Ao Salak Phet in the southeast of the island has a fishing village atmosphere and features good seafood restaurants, with a few quiet places to stay perched above the water.
Information
EMERGENCY
Police station (0 3958 6191; Ban Dan Mai)
Tourist Police office (0 3957 7255, emergency 1155) Based north of Ban Khlong Prao. Also has smaller police boxes in Hat Sai Khao and Hat Kaibae.
INTERNET ACCESS
Internet access is easy to find all the way down the west coast. Expect to pay up to 2B per minute.
BW Cafe (Hat Sai Khao; free wi-fi; 9am-late) Tucked off the road in the middle of Hat Sai Khao. Fresh baked goods and a nice happy hour from 6pm to 9pm.
Earthlink (Hat Sai Khao; per min 1B; 10am-11pm) For cool coffees and Skype at the northern end of Hat Sai Khao.
iSite (Ban Khlong Prao; www.i-sitekohchang.com; per min 2B; 9.30am-9.30pm) Has Skype, wi-fi, a travel agency and decent coffee.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Bang Bao Health Centre (0 3955 8088; Ban Bang Bao; 8.30am-6pm) For the basics.
Ko Chang Hospital (0 3952 1657; Ban Dan Mai) Just south of the main ferry terminal.
Ko Chang International Clinic (0 1863 3609, 0 3955 1151; Hat Sai Khao; 24hr) Related to the Bangkok Hospital Group and can handle most minor emergencies. Has an ambulance.
MONEY
There are banks with ATMs and exchange facilities along Hat Sai Khao, and ATMs at all the west coast beaches.
POST
Ko Chang post office (0 3955 1240; Hat Sai Khao) At the far southern end of Hat Sai Khao.
TOURIST INFORMATION
The nearest tourist office is in Laem Ngop (Click here). The free magazine Koh Chang, Trat & the Eastern Islands (www.whitesandsthailand.com) is widely available on the island and is packed with useful listings and tips. Its website is an excellent resource for pre-trip planning. It also publishes a ‘Koh Chang Restaurants and Bars’ guide.
The comprehensive website www.iamkohchang.com is a labour of love from an irreverent Brit living on the island. His ‘KC Essentials A-Z’ section is jam-packed with opinion and information.
Dangers & Annoyances
The western beaches are often posted with warnings about dangerous rip tides and undercurrents during the monsoon (May to September). If a beach has such a warning, don’t go in above your knees. Hat Tha Nam, Hat Sai Khao and Ao Khlong Prao have suffered several fatalities.
The police conduct regular drug raids on the island’s accommodation. If you get caught with narcotics, you could face heavy fines or imprisonment.
Although the island’s ring road is now sealed, parts of the route are very steep with several hairpin turns. The southeastern end of the island is especially bad, with many parts of the road washed out. Don’t ride a motorbike unless you’re experienced.
Smaller speedboats buck and kick like an angry mule, even on relatively calm water. If you’re heading to or from the smaller islands and you’re susceptible to motion sickness, take some meds beforehand and try to sit at the back of the boat.
Activities
COURSES
The Koh Chang Thai Cookery School (08 1940 0649; Ao Khlong Prao) at the Blue Lagoon Resort offers fun cookery courses for those wanting to re-create their favourite tastes once