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Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [206]

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series of three falls along the stream of Khlong Mayom in the interior of the island, Nam Tok Than Mayom (park fee 200B;8am-5pm) can be reached via Tha Than Mayom or Ban Dan Mai on the east coast. The view from the top is superb and nearby there are inscribed stones bearing the initials of Rama V, Rama VI and Rama VII.

Nam Tok Khlong Plu (park fee 200B;8am-5pm), another impressive (and popular) fall, is easily accessible from Ao Khlong Prao on the western coast. Set amid striking jungle scenery, the three-tiered fall is quickly reached by walking 600m along a well-marked, lush, jungle path. There’s a pool to cool off in after your mini-adventure.

Nam Tok Khiri Phet is a small waterfall about 2km from Ban Salak Phet on the southeastern coast. A 15-minute walk takes you to a small, deep, plunge pool at the base of a small chute. It’s usually quieter than many of the larger falls.

At the southeastern end of Ao Bang Bao, around the headland that leads to Ao Salak Phet, is a beautiful and secluded beach, Hat Wai Chek. Don’t try hiking all the way from Bang Bao to Ao Salak Phet unless you’re an experienced tropical hiker with moderate orienteering skills – there are a lot of hills and many interconnecting, unmarked trails. If you don’t get lost, this rewarding hike will take four to six hours. Should you decide to attempt it, carry enough food and water for an overnight stay. If you do get lost, following any stream will usually take you either to a village or to the sea. Then you can follow the coast or ask directions.

The ranger stations around the island aren’t very useful for solo trekkers, but you can arrange guides at Evolution Tour (0 3955 7078; www.evolutiontour.com; Khlong Prao). Lek from Jungle Way (08 9223 4795; www.jungleway.com) runs one-day (800B) and two-day (950B) treks into the island’s interior. The one-day Chang Noi peninsula trek in the island’s north is recommended if you’re after some serious exercise. Salak Phet Kayak Station (08 7834 9489) guides overnight treks (one night 1500B) to the highest point on Ko Chang, the 744m Khao Salak Phet, from where it’s possible to view both sunrise and sunset. You can choose to sleep in a tent or under the stars. Independent guide Mr Tan (08 9645 2019) leads equally intense treks from the west side of the island, often on trails he’s cut himself. Hikes range from a half-day (600B) to a full day with elephant trekking (1300B). Birdwatchers should contact the Trekkers of Koh Chang (08 1578 7513) who run one-day and two-day trips (1000B to 2000B) into the national park.

KAYAKING

The Salak Kok Kayak Station (08 1919 3995; Ban Salak Kok), in a traditional stilt village in the island’s southeast, hires kayaks for viewing the mangrove-forested bay. Kayak rental for one hour costs 100B and a 90-minute guided tour is 200B. It also runs a three-hour ‘dinner cruise’ (1200B per person) where you’re guided through the mangroves at sunset while dining on home-cooked food.

Nearby a raised concrete walkway wends its way through the mangroves. It’s not the most attractive construction, but it does immerse you in this fascinating ecosystem.

Many guesthouses rent out kayaks; prices generally run from 100B per hour and 300B to 500B per day.

OTHER ACTIVITIES

Some of the guesthouses at Hat Sai Khao, Hat Kai Mook and Hat Kaibae rent out inflatable beach rafts, sailboards, masks and snorkels, and boogie boards. Mountain bikes can be rented for 150B per day at several places on the island, most of which are located at Hat Sai Khao and Hat Kaibae. You can also organise day trips (200B to 1000B) and overnight trips (1500B to 2000B) to nearby islands from most accommodation places.

Bailan Herbal Sauna (08 6252 4744; Ban Bailan; 4-8pm) has a round earthen sauna set amid lush greenery where you can get healthy with different herbal concoctions for 200B. Bailan also offers Lao massage (350B) and facial treatments (40B to 60B) with locally harvested ingredients. Cool down afterwards in the juice bar.

Regarded by some as the best massage on the island, Sima Massage (08 1489 5171; Ao Khlong

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