Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [208]
KC Grande Resort (0 3955 1199; www.kcresortkohchang.com; r 3000-6300B; ) What was once an original backpacker setting has gone completely upmarket. Unfortunately, the original rustic charm of this spot has been diluted and the atmosphere is now a bit like a holiday camp. Welcome to the future of Ko Chang.
Next door to Bo’s Independent and Rock Sand, Pan’s Bungalows and Star Beach Bungalows offer rickety ambience at a similar cost.
HAT KAI MOOK
Laid-back Hat Kai Mook (Pearl Beach) is a quieter alternative to Hat Sai Khao and features mostly midrange accommodation. Most places are on the small, rocky beach and away from the busy main road.
Saffron on the Sea (0 3955 1253; r 1200-1800B; ) Owned by an arty escapee from the hectic streets of Bangkok, this friendly boutique guesthouse has a deliciously bohemian ambience. Individually designed huts are painted warm colours, and the grounds are landscaped with rattan furniture and local flora. There’s no real beach, but that makes the setting intimate and quiet.
Penny’s Bungalow Resort (08 1595 9750; www.penny-thailand.com; r incl breakfast 1600-3500B; ) To make room for the pool, the bungalows are a bit close together, but this is still a well run and quiet option a short ride from the brighter lights of Hat Sai Khao. It’s family friendly, with plus-sized bungalows to comfortably store the whole brood.
Remark Cottage (0 3955 1261; www.remarkcottage.com; r 2000-3500B; ) An overgrown garden conceals 15 Balinese-style bungalows that look simple at first, but are actually accented with interesting design details. Relax in the wooden spa pool or treat yourself with a course of shower spray therapy. Green and serene.
AO KHLONG PRAO
About 4km south of Hat Sai Khao, Ao Khlong Prao is developing as the island’s luxury hub, but a few affordable places remain.
Tiger Huts (08 1762 3710; r 300-600B) In a sparkly sea of upmarket resorts, Tiger Huts clings firmly to the low-budget market. Forty unadorned thatch huts line a strip of sandy beach and come in two models: shared bath or private bath. They’re simple, but (relatively) cheap.
Blue Lagoon Resort (08 1940 0649; r 600-1000B; ) Whitewashed bungalows with private decks and softly striped curtains sit right above a calm lagoon, and further back two-story air-con bungalows stand in a shady grove. A wooden walkway leads to the beach and there’s even a hand-pulled raft across the water. This exceedingly friendly resort also runs a Thai cooking class (Click here).
Aana (0 3955 1539; www.aanaresort.com; r from 7000B; ) Private villas perch prettily above the forest and Khlong Prao. With round walls and crisp decor, the Aana throws away the rule book for tropical resort design, and comes up with something fresh and unique. The rooms are effortlessly romantic and a few come with personal jacuzzis. This is one of the island’s best.
HAT KAIBAE
South of the lagoon, Hat Kaibae is an expanding scene of midrange places and former backpacker spots moving upmarket. In the high season there are bad traffic jams (especially at weekends) as cars and bikes squeeze past on the narrow main road.
Kaibae Beach (0 3955 7142; r 700-2000B; ) Popular with holidaying Thais, Kaibae Beach has simple wooden fan bungalows and concrete (but well-designed) air-con ones. A large open-air restaurant fires up nightly barbecues.
KB Resort (0 1862 8103; www.kbresort.com; r 1150-2600B; ) An old backpacker stomping ground, KB Resort has gone upmarket and family friendly with a tot-sized waterslide and a teeny playground filled with wooden toys. Decor and design are very nice, but everything is a tad overpriced.
Garden Resort (0 3955 7260; www.gardenresortkohchang.com; r 2200B; ) In a quiet location off the busy main road, Garden Resort has individually decorated bungalows, in-room internet access and arty touches