Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [210]
Ocean Blue (08 1889 2348; www.oceanbluethailand.com; r 700B) Simple fan rooms line a long, polished-wood hallway at this traditional pier house. Toilets are the bucket variety, and showers are cold, but the rooms are clean and you can hear the ocean slosh beneath you. The young crew running the place are quirky and funny.
Bang Bao Sea Hut (08 1285 0570; r 2000B; ) With individual bungalows extending into Bang Bao harbour, this is one of Ko Chang’s most enchanting places to stay. Each elegant thatched roof ‘hut’ (actually much flasher than it sounds) is surrounded by a private deck, with wooden shutters opening to the sea breeze.
Nisa Cabana Resort (0 3955 8161; www.nisacabanakohchang.com; r 4650-13,500B; ) Brand new and waiting for the posh set to arrive, Nisa has luxurious bungalows hidden in a jungle where no trees were unnecessarily felled. Quiet, privacy and seclusion are the themes, yet the sleek Asian architecture allows for plenty of light in the rooms. There isn’t a beach, but a tiered infinity pool looks over the Gulf.
Nirvana (0 3955 8061; www.nirvanakohchang.com; r 5900-9900B; ) Ko Chang’s premium resort is hidden away on a quiet peninsula, and almost impossible to spot among rambling vegetation. ‘Balinese’ was the initial design brief, but each bungalow is furnished slightly differently in muted earth tones with subtle Asian accents.
EAST COAST
This part of the island can feel isolated with most resorts catering to Thai customers. A few stand-out options do exist though. Transport is limited.
A road now runs from just south of Judo Resort to Hat Yao (Long Beach), a quiet, pristine slip of sand with minimal development. Though the road has brought some development to the area, it was still poorly maintained and in bad shape when we visited. We don’t recommend trying to drive a motorbike there unless you don’t mind walking it for long stretches.
Treehouse Lodge (08 1847 8215; www.tree-house.org; Hat Yao; r 300B) The original Treehouse Lodge moved here from Hat Tha Nam, and yet another opening is scheduled on Ko Pha Ngan in 2009. Nevertheless, the new owners are keeping the name, and the vibe, going. A true backpacker paradise, travellers often stay longer than they planned. Basic huts (which share super-basic bathrooms) chill along a hillside, looking down to a softly sanded slice of beach.
Salak Phet Homestay (08 1294 1650; Ban Salak Phet; r incl meals 300B) One of several pier house stays on the island, Salak Phet’s sees fewer tourists than, say, Bang Bao, and is all the more authentic for it. Accommodation consists of a bedroll on the floor of a small room, and shared, basic baths. You’ll dine with the family, and meals usually include fresh seafood. The Salak Phet Kayak Station (08 7834 9489) can help arrange the stay for you.
Zion Guest House (08 4947 8179; yann.espinosa@yahoo.fr; Hat Yao; r 300-400B) Just past the Treehouse Lodge is Zion, run by the wonderfully chill Yann (rhymes with ‘yawn’). Though there are about a dozen en suite huts now, he has plans to expand accommodation on this beachfront locale. If the Treehouse isn’t mellow enough for you, head down here.
Amber Sands (0 3958 6177; www.funkyhut-thailand.com; Ao Dan Kao; r 1600-1850B; ) The former Funky Hut Resort is under new ownership and is decidedly less funky and certainly more comfortable than its predecessors. Sporting a full facelift and some pleasant landscaping, the invitingly roomy bungalows still smell of fresh paint and are good value. Warm hosts Cheryl and Julian can pick you up from the ferry if you contact them in advance.
Eating & Drinking
Virtually all of the island’s accommodation options have attached restaurants, but a few specialist restaurant scenes are also developing.
HAT SAI KHAO
Hat Sai Khao has the highest concentration of eateries.
Thor’s Palace (08 1927 2502; mains 70-170B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) The deliciously camp Thor serves up excellent food and terrific beats amid gorgeous surroundings dotted with mementos of his globetrotting. This shrine to Thor