Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [218]
A crackdown on gambling in Phnom Penh has caused a glut of casinos to be built in Poipet. Most cater to Thais from Bangkok, and the contrast between visiting Thais and poor Khmers pushing rudimentary handcarts is startling.
Parts of this area are still heavily mined –don’t stray from marked roads and paths.
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Sights
The large border market of Talat Rong Kluea, at the northern edge of town, attracts a rag-tag crowd of Cambodians who cross the border to trade with the more affluent Thais. Gems, handicrafts and textiles were traditionally sold, but the emphasis is now on second-hand gear from developed countries. It’s mainly thrift-store tat, but if you’re after knockoff Converse, Prada or Gucci, or taekwondo gear formerly used by the South Korean national team, it’s definitely worth a browse. Hire a bike (20B) to explore the maze of over 3000 shops. If you’re not buying, it’s still fascinating to observe the steady stream of Cambodians crossing the border with huge hand-pulled carts piled high with market goods.
Sleeping & Eating
Simple rooms for rent (from 200B to 300B) are available near the turn-off to the market just before the border. Look for the Pepsi sign in Thai.
Market Hotel (0 3723 2302; 105/30-32 Th Rat Uthit; r 250-400B; ) Service is a little lacking here, but it’s a backpacker-friendly spot.
Ban Ratanatam (r 350B) Simple air-con rooms are just up the road from Talat Rong Kluea. No English is spoken. Look for the internet gaming cafe and food stalls.
Aran Mermed Hotel (0 3722 3655; fax 0 3722 3666; 33 Th Tanawithi; r/ste 1200/2500B; ) With air-con and spacious and comfy rooms in a shiny high-rise, you almost forget you’re in a Thai border town. The Aran Mermed is tucked right behind the bus station.
Across from Kasikorn Bank in Talat Rong Kluea, a sign that simply advertises Coffee Steak Internet serves just that – on a shady wooden deck under red umbrellas.
Around the market there are many cheap food stalls.
Getting There & Around
Ordinary buses from Bangkok’s Northern (Mo Chit) bus station to Aranya Prathet (125B, five hours) leave on an hourly basis from 5.30am to 4.30pm; air-con buses (215B, 4¼ hours) leave hourly from 5.30am to 10.30am, and from noon to 5pm. If you’re travelling to Northeastern Thailand there are regular buses from Aranya Prathet to Khorat (200B, five hours). There’s also a direct bus service from Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi airport to the border with Cambodia (190B, four hours).
Two trains per day (5.55am and 1.05pm) depart Bangkok’s Hualamphong station for Aranya Prathet (3rd-class only, 48B, six hours).
From the bus station, a local bus (15B) goes to Talat Rong Kluea, from where you can walk to the border. The train station is near the bus station and a túk-túk from either the border or the market is 60B to 80B. Motorbike taxis cost about half as much as túk-túks and will also take you to the market.
Border Crossing (Cambodia)
The border to Cambodia is open daily from 7am to 8pm. First proceed through the Thai immigration office and then cross the border by foot to the Cambodian immigration office. You’ll need a photo and 1200B (or US$25). You can also pre-arrange a Cambodian visa in Bangkok at the Cambodian embassy. A tourist shuttle bus outside the Cambodian immigration office delivers passengers free of charge to Poipet’s taxi stand, where onward transport can be arranged. At the time of writing the road from Poipet was finally on its way to being in reasonable shape. Travel time has been cut in half and it’s now only a two-hour trip to Siem Reap. See