Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [222]
In stark contrast to Bangkok, Chiang Mai is a very manageable city to navigate. Many residents scoot around town on motorbikes, covering nominal distances between their respective homes, jobs and playgrounds.
Most visitors base themselves in the old city. The majority of backpacker accommodation occupies the sois that connect to Th Moon Muang along the eastern edges of the old city, while the famous temples are spread out along Th Ratchadamnoen. The old city is easily navigated on foot or by bike.
Chiang Mai’s newer parts follow main roads that generally bisect the city into the four cardinal points. Sometimes directions are given in relation to the various gates that allow traffic passage into and out of the old walled city.
The easternmost gate is Pratu Tha Phae, which leads to Th Tha Phae, another tourist area. Th Tha Phae leads to Mae Nam Ping (the Ping River) and the famous Talat Warorot. Nearby is the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar. The eastern riverbank (in this chapter under Riverside) has a lively restaurant and nightlife scene. Further east is the train station and the long-distance bus station.
Pratu Suan Dok exits the western moat and allows access to Th Suthep and Th Huay Kaew, two busy thoroughfares connecting the old city to the leafy environs of Chiang Mai University and Doi Suthep further west. The centre of Chiang Mai’s uni scene is Th Nimmanhaemin.
* * *
CARAVANS OF NORTHERN THAILAND
Dating from at least the 15th century, Chinese-Muslim caravans from Yunnan Province (China) used Chiang Mai as a ‘back door’ for commodities transported between China and the Indian Ocean bound for international seagoing trade.
The principal means of transport for the Yunnanese caravaneers were ponies and mules, an animal-husbandry tradition adopted during the Mongol invasions of Yunnan in the 13th century. Astride their strange beasts of burden, the foreigners were nicknamed jeen hor (galloping Chinese) by the Thais.
Exports along the southern routes included silk, opium, tea, dried fruit, lacquerware, musk, ponies and mules, while northward the caravans brought gold, copper, cotton, edible birds’ nests, betel nut, tobacco and ivory. By the end of the 19th century many artisans from China, northern Burma and Laos had settled in the area to produce crafts for the steady flow of regional trade. The city’s original transhipment point for such trade movements was a market district known as Ban Haw, just a stone’s throw from today’s night bazaar (Click here).
* * *
The northern gate is Pratu Chang Pheuak and Th Chang Pheuak passes the provincial bus station (Chang Pheuak station). The southern gate is Pratu Chiang Mai. The outskirts of the city are partially circumnavigated by three concentric ring roads that branch off Rte 121 (also known as the klorng road). The innermost ring road is called Th Superhighway.
Return to beginning of chapter
Maps
A copy of Nancy Chandler’s Map of Chiang Mai, available in bookshops, is a worthwhile investment. It shows the main points of interest, shopping venues and oddities that you will be pleased to stumble upon. Groovy Map Chiang Mai Map’n’Guide, also in bookshops, adds Thai script and more nightspots.
INFORMATION
Return to beginning of chapter
Bookshops
Chiang Mai’s ‘bookshop alley’ is concentrated on Th Chang Moi Kao. Most are open from 9am to 9pm.
Backstreet Books (Map; 0 5387 4143; 2/8 Th Chang Moi Kao) In a rambling shop next to Gecko Books.
Book Zone (Map; 0 5325 2418; Th Tha Phae) Directly opposite Wat Mahawan; new travel guides and travel literature, plus contemporary fiction.
Gecko Books (Map; 0 5387 4066; Th Chang Moi Kao) A Chiang Mai chain, Gecko Books has several branches, including Th Ratchamankha and Th Loi Kroh; includes new and used books sheathed in annoying plastic wrap.
Lost Book Shop (Map; 0 5320 6656; 34/3 Th Ratchamankha) Second-hand books free of plastic wrap for easy browsing; same owner as Backstreet Books.
On the Road Books (Map; 0 5341 8169; 38/1 Th Ratwithi) A long-running second-hand shop with a small selection of good-quality