Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [234]
Although much of the decorative stucco work is gone, you can still count the jèt yôrt (seven spires) that represent the seven weeks Buddha was supposed to have spent in Bodhgaya after his enlightenment. Of the original stucco relief, a few intact Bodhisattva (Buddhist saints, usually associated with Mahayana Buddhism) depictions remain on the outer walls.
There’s an adjacent chedi of undetermined age and a very glossy wí·hhn near the entrance that contains fairly modern murals depicting ordinary life in the age of automobiles.
CHIANG MAI NATIONAL MUSEUM
Operated by the Fine Arts Department and established in 1973, the Chiang Mai National Museum (Map; 0 5322 1308; www.thailandmuseum.com; off Th Superhighway; admission 100B; 9am-4pm Wed-Sun) functions as the primary caretaker of Lanna artefacts and as the curator of northern Thailand’s history. This museum is a nice complement to the municipally run Chiang Mai City Arts & Cultural Centre (Click here) because you’ll find more art and artefacts here and the scope of the exhibits reaches beyond the city limits. Other national museums that display important artefacts from the north are located in Lamphun, Chiang Saen and Nan – all operate under the auspices of the Chiang Mai National Museum.
The best curated section of the museum is the Lanna art section, which displays a selection of Buddha images in all styles, and explains the different periods and influences.
TRIBAL MUSEUM
Overlooking a lake in Suan Ratchamangkhala on the northern outskirts of the city, this octagonal museum (0 5321 0872; off Th Chang Pheauk; admission free; 9am-4pm Mon-Fri) houses a collection of handicrafts, costumes, jewellery, ornaments, household utensils, agricultural tools, musical instruments and ceremonial paraphernalia. There are also informative displays showing the cultural features and background of each of the major hill tribes in Thailand; an exhibition on activities carried out by the Thai royal family on behalf of the hill tribes; and various bits of research and development sponsored by governmental and non-governmental agencies. Video shows run from 10am to 2pm (20B to 50B). The museum is closed on public holidays.
HUAY TEUNG THAO RESERVOIR
Thais love lounging by the water and this sizeable reservoir (admission 20B; 8am-sunset), at the northwestern foot of Doi Suthep-Pui park, has become more than just a piece of infrastructure. The banks are dotted with floating bamboo huts (10B per person) where Thais come to snack on fried bugs (another reservoir pastime), share a bottle of whisky and perfect the art of relaxation. Should the day get hot, you can have a dip from your personal dock. Fishing is permitted if you’d like to try your luck at hooking lunch.
There are a couple of small restaurants nearby that prepare the local speciality of gûng ên (dancing shrimp), freshwater shrimp served live in a piquant sauce of lime juice and prík lâhp (a northern Thai blend of spicy herbs and chillies).
The reservoir is about 12km northwest of the city. Travelling by car or motorcycle you can reach Huay Teung Thao by driving 10km north on Rte 107 (follow signs towards Mae Rim), then west 2km past an army camp to the reservoir. Cyclists would do best to pedal to the reservoir via Th Klorng Chonprathan (also known as the klorng road), which has a dirt frontage road. From the northwestern corner of the moat, the bicycle ride takes about an hour.
Doi Suthep-Pui National Park
Chiang Mai’s sacred peaks, Doi Suthep (1676m) and Doi Pui (1685m) loom over the city like guardian spirits and were used by the city’s founders as a divine compass in locating an auspicious position. Suthep was named after the hermit Sudeva, who lived on the mountain’s slopes for many years, and is the site of Chiang Mai’s holy temple Wat Phra That Doi Suthep.
Portions of the mountains form a 265 sq km national park (0 5321 0244; adult/child under 14 yr 200/100B; 8am-sunset) that contains a mix of wilderness, hill-tribe villages and tourist attractions, including Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. Despite human encroachment,