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(For the less fit, there’s a tram for 20B). You’ll first reach an open-air terrace filled with important statues and shrines documenting the history of the temple. Near a signed jackfruit tree is a shrine to Sudeva, the hermit who lived on the mountain, and nearby is a statue of the white elephant who carried the relic up the mountain slope. Follow the walkway around in the clockwise direction to reach a viewpoint and a small sanctuary dedicated to the king who established the temple. The building is guarded by two mom, mythical figures with the characteristics of a lion, chameleon and fish.

A second set of stairs leads to the main cloister and the temple’s famously photographed gold-plated chedi, topped by a five-tiered umbrella erected in honour of the city’s independence from Burma and its union with Thailand. In the case of Wat Suthep, it is the chedi (and the sacred Buddha relic enshrined inside) not a resident Buddha image that attracts the majority of worshippers. The chedi has many Lanna-style characteristics, including the gate around its base, the redented square pedestal and the octagonally shaped bell tower. Flanking the chedi are several wí·hhn containing Lanna-style Buddhas with their distinctive fat facial and body features, two upturned footpads, shortened chest bands and lotus-shaped topknot.

Within the monastery compound, the International Buddhism Center conducts a variety of religious outreach programs for visitors; see Courses (Click here) for more information.

PHRA TAMNAK PHU PHING

About 4km beyond the temple is Phra Tamnak Phu Phing (Phu Phing Palace; admission 50B; 8.30am-11.30am & 1-3.30pm), a winter palace for the royal family surrounded by gardens that are open to the public. It closes if the royal family is visiting, but these days the royals don’t visit often. The gardens specialise in cool-weather flowers, like roses, which are exotic to Thais but a little anaemic for Westerners. More interesting is the water reservoir brought to life by dancing fountains moving in sync to musical compositions by the king. The nearby fern garden is also a pleasant stroll. Though not a must, the gardens are good for ‘nature sightseers’ who like their forests to have paved footpaths.

HMONG VILLAGES

The road that passes the palace splits off to the left, stopping at the peak of Doi Pui. From there, a road proceeds for a couple of kilometres to Ban Doi Pui, a Hmong hill-tribe village. Don’t expect much evidence of village life here though – it is basically a tourist market selling Hmong crafts and souvenirs. There is a tiny museum (admission 10B) giving some information about hill tribes and opium production.

A more interesting Hmong village is Ban Kun Chang Kian, north of the Doi Pui camp-ground. Instead of going left on the road past the palace head right. The road is paved just past the campground and then for the last 500m or so it is a bumpy dirt track. To save wear and tear, you can park at the camp-ground’s visitor centre and walk from there to enjoy the ridgeline and the pink flowering trees (called ‘pá·yah sua krôhng’ in Thai). You’ll find a basic village-run coffee house surrounded by coffee plants that are harvested in January. Nearby is basic accommodation (from 600B) with fantastic views.

WALKING TOUR

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Old City Temple Tour

No visit to Chiang Mai is complete without spending a sweaty day temple-spotting. This walking tour takes you to the old city’s most famous temples (you should devote another day to Wat Suthep, opposite). Start early before the day gets hot so that you can see the everyday uses of a temple: the comings and goings of monks, the prayer rituals of merit-makers and spotting which meditators are really asleep. Remember to dress modestly (covering shoulders and knees), take off your shoes when you enter a building and sit in the ‘mermaid’ position (with your legs tucked behind you) while you are observing the interior of a sanctuary.

Starting with the best, Wat Phra Singh (1; Click here) is home to the city’s most revered Buddha image (Phra