Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [244]
For midrange and top-end hotels, always check online for discounts especially during the low season.
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Old City
There are so many guesthouses in the residential sois off Th Moon Muang, especially in Soi 7 and Soi 9, that a Chiang Mai friend recently dubbed it Th Khao Muang (‘kôw meuang’ is northern Thai for ‘sticky rice’, a reference to Bangkok’s popular Th Khao San, which means ‘uncooked rice’). There are also a few guesthouses in the southeastern corner of the old city off Th Ratchamankha and in the lower numbered sois off Th Moon Muang.
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WHAT TO EXPECT IN CHIANG MAI
Budget (under 1000B)
Midrange (1001B to 3000B)
Top End (over 3000B)
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BUDGET
Julie Guesthouse ( Map; 0 5327 4355; www.julieguesthouse.com; 7 Soi 5, Th Phra Pokklao; dm 70B, r 100-300B) Part hostel, part guesthouse, Julie has cornered the young backpackers’ social scene. The garden cafe is full of enthusiastic first-timers swapping tips and tales. In the evenings, folks retire to the covered roof terrace strung up with hammocks.
Malak Guest House ( Map; 0 5322 4648; malakguesthouse@hotmail.com; 25 Soi 2, Th Ratwithi; r 180-250B; ) Newly refurbished apartment building has all the backpackers flocking inside for its crisp clean rooms with private bath.
Lamchang House ( Map; 0 5321 0586; Soi 7, Th Moon Muang; r 200B) One of Chiang Mai’s cheapest, this old wooden house has basic fan rooms with shared bath. The downstairs rooms are a little dark but there’s a pleasant front-yard garden and attached restaurant.
Supreme House ( Map; 0 5322 2480; 44/1 Soi 9, Th Moon Muang; r 200-300B) This nondescript three-storey building is run by Mr Gordon, a backpacker who turned into a life-term expat. The atmosphere is relaxed, the clientele devoted and there’s a small library on the ground floor.
Jonadda Guest House ( Map; 0 5322 7281; 23/1 Soi 2, Th Ratwithi; r 250-450B; ) Run by an Aussie-Thai couple, this multi-storey building has spotless but basic rooms. There is a pleasant ground-floor cafe filled with trekking information.
Smile House 1 ( Map; 0 5320 8661; www.smileguesthouse.com; 5 Soi 2, Th Ratchamankha; r 250-700B; ) A little backpacker village flourishes around an old Thai house, which has basic shared-bath rooms. Next door is a grubby multi-storey building that might make you migrate elsewhere. The one-storey buildings that flank the pool are much nicer and popular with families. The atmosphere is friendly and the staff gets rave reviews. The owner confirmed that the old house once served as the ‘safe house’ of Kun Sa, the infamous Shan-Chinese opium warlord.
Siri Guesthouse ( Map; 0 5332 6550; Soi 5, Th Moon Muang; s/d 250/300B) This mellow place offers fairly stylish rooms considering the price. Some rooms can be a little dark but are still comfortable and clean.
Thapae Gate Lodge ( Map; 0 5320 7134; www.thapaegatelodge.com; 38/7 Soi 2, Th Moon Muang; s 250-350B, d 300-400B; ) Across the street from All in 1, this multi-storey building has clean and cheap rooms with small terraces and a friendly owner who speaks good English.
Awanahouse ( Map; 0 5341 9005; www.awanahouse.com; 7 Soi 1, Th Ratchadamnoen; r 300-900B; ) What started out as a small guesthouse has grown into a standard multi-storey apartment building on a quiet soi. Awana has large and bright rooms, some with balconies, TV and fridge. The cheapest rooms have fan and shared bath. The lap pool is good for a plunge but not for sunbathing. The top floor has been converted into a chill-out space with city views and a pool table.
Rendezvous Guest House ( Map; 0 5321 3763; rendezvousgh@hotmail.com; 3/1 Soi 5, Th Ratchadamnoen; r 350-500B; ) An adequate wallflower of a place, this three-storey guesthouse has clean and cheap rooms. The primary difference in price is if you opt for fan or air-con. Some rooms have spiffier tiles and all have TV, safety