Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [246]
Buri Gallery ( Map; 0 5341 6500; 102 Th Ratchadamnoen; r 1600-2000B; ) A glorified guesthouse, Buri Gallery occupies a converted teak building decorated with Lanna handicrafts. Most of the ground-floor rooms don’t have windows and the walls are too thin to block out noise. The upstairs deluxe rooms are quieter and have small terraces and in-room internet-enabled computers. Though the rates are a tad high, the staff provide the kind of services you’d find at fully fledged hotels.
TOP END
Villa Duang Champa ( Map; 0 5332 7199; www.duangchampa.com; 82 Th Ratchadamnoen; r 2800-3800B; ) Victorian architecture meets modern minimalism in this mini boutique hotel. With only 10 rooms, Duang Champa occupies a colonial-style building with rooms so sparse they’re almost bare, save for the mattresses suited for ageing backs and the modern electronic toys. The top floor deluxe rooms have views of Doi Suthep.
U Chiang Mai ( Map; 0 5332 7000; www.uchiangmai.com; 70 Th Ratchadamnoen; r from 4500B; ) Golf clubs and briefcases are shuttled in and out of this corporate-friendly hotel, a rare find in the heart of the old city. The rooms are situated around a central infinity pool and have lavender-and-black colour schemes that are contemporary without being cutting edge. Superior rooms have shower only (no bathtubs). The hotel has a 24-hour checkout policy: you leave at the same time you arrived.
Tamarind Village ( Map; 0 5341 8896-9; www.tamarindvillage.com; 50/1 Th Ratchadamnoen; r 6000-18,000B; ) Considered to be one of the first of the ‘Lanna revival’ hotels, Tamarind Village has recreated the quiet spaces of a temple with galleried buildings and garden courtyards on the grounds of an old tamarind orchard. The bamboo-shrouded walkway and whitewashed perimeter wall shut out the distracting modern world. Cultural and religious activities at the nearby temple are an added bonus. Internet is available in the common spaces only.
Rachamankha ( Map; 0 5390 4111; www.rachamankha.com; 6 Th Ratchamankha; r 7000-9,500B; ) The encore effort by architect Ong-ard Satrabhandu to Tamarind Village, Rachamankha imitates an ancient monastery in Lampang. Considering the reputation, the rooms aren’t opulent and the superiors are quite small. The deluxe rooms are more generous with four-poster beds and bathrooms that double the living space. The highlight of the hotel is the library, a light-strewn room smelling of polished wood and musty paper.
East of the Old City
Traffic is more intense outside of the old city and the roar of engines often detracts from Chiang Mai’s low-key ambience. While it isn’t as quaint as the old city, Th Tha Phae is just as convenient for sightseeing and nightlife and even closer to the night bazaar. More upmarket visitors will also like the convergence of stylish lodging next door to ordinary Thai life – musty old houses, commuting motorbikes, and housewives selling coffee and noodles.
Corporate hotels with business centres and conference capacity occupy the area near the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar. The surrounding businesses cater to conservative travellers. Previously, Chiang Mai filled the corporate niche with home-grown hotels while the international chains could hardly find this backwater on a map. But multinational brands have now staked out massive claims in this area in preparation of Chiang Mai becoming a new conference destination.
BUDGET
Daret’s House ( Map; 0 5323 5440; 4/5 Th Chaiyaphum; r 150-160B) A long-time backpackers’ fave with stacks of basic, well-worn rooms, Daret’s looks like many of Th Khao San’s backpacker flops. But because this is Lanna-land, Kun Daret is an amiable guy often found in the cafe with his pet bird. You pay more for the luxury of hot water.
Tawan Guesthouse ( Map; 0 5320 8077; 4 Soi 6, Th Tha Phae;