Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [252]
Ginger Kafe ( Map; 0 5341 9011; 199 Th Moon Muang; dishes 90-200B; 10am-11pm) Within the same grounds as the House, Ginger Kafe is a smart place for the local debutantes and LWLs (ladies who lunch). The sunny dining room is dressed up in proper manor-house prints and the chefs entertain the palate with well-educated international and Thai dishes.
Juicy 4U ( Map; 0 5327 8715; 5 Th Ratchamankha; dishes 95-135B;8.30am-5.30pm) This cute cafe serves hangover-fighting juices, make-your-own vegetarian sandwiches and standard Thai dishes. Bring along some reading material as the kitchen can be very slow.
Jerusalem Falafel ( Map; 0 5327 0208; 35/3 Th Moon Muang; dishes 100-280B) You might yawn at the thought of yet another Middle Eastern restaurant in a backpacker ghetto but let us sing the praises of this exotic import. The restaurant is a lively place to assemble with friends and nosh on a meze platter of falafel, shashlik, hummus and tabouli. Yoghurt, halloumi and feta cheese are home-made here.
House ( Map; 0 5341 9011; 199 Th Moon Muang; dishes 200-800B; 6pm-11pm) This restaurant occupies a mid-20th-century house (it once belonged to an exiled Burmese prince) that’s now outfitted with colonial accoutrements. The House menu is a pan-Pacific affair, combining imported lamb and salmon with local spices and cooking techniques. If you’re commitment shy about dinner, stop in and enjoy a few tapas dishes at the outdoor Moroccan-themed bar.
East of the Old City
THAI
Chiang Mai’s small Chinatown, along Th Chang Moi, is a tasty quarter to investigate early in the morning. On Th Khang Mehn, you’ll find kà·nm jeen and other noodle dishes. An alley next to the Top Charoen Optical shop, wakes up early thanks to a popular nám ow·hôo (soy milk) stall, serving warm soy milk accompanied with Chinese-style deep-fried doughnuts.
Kuaytiaw Kai Tun Coke ( Map; Th Kamphaeng Din; dishes 30-50B; 8am-4pm Mon-Sat) This small food shop, directly opposite the main entrance to the Imperial Mae Ping Hotel, prepares a unique version of goay eo gài ŭn yah jeen. Here the chicken is marinated in Coca-Cola and spices overnight, then steamed and served with rice noodles. It’s actually quite good and has become famous as far away as Bangkok.
Aomngurn ( Map; 0 5323 3675; Th Ratchawong; dishes 30-100B) Next to the New Mitrapap Hotel, this humble spot is an easy escape from Talat Warorot’s chaos and crowds. It specialises in Thai-Chinese dishes as well as grilled chicken and zesty yam (Thai-style salads).
Ratana’s Kitchen ( Map; 0 5387 4173; 320-322 Th Tha Phae; dishes 30-150B) For all the talk of Chiang Mai having cool temperatures, it still gets hot by midday. Jump out of the oven and into Ratana’s kitchen. It isn’t a culinary legend but the dishes and prices are sensible and it’s got a prime spot near Pratu Tha Phae for wilting tourists.
Galare Food Centre ( Map; Galare Night Bazaar, Th Chang Khlan; dishes 50-80B; 6pm-midnight) A classic food court, the Galare Food Centre offers a stress-free version of a night market. You buy coupons at the front desk, select a ready-made dish from one of the vendors and eat in a clean, traffic-free environment. There’s also nightly entertainment, including Thai classical dancing.
Taste From Heaven ( Map; 0 5320 8803; 237-239 Th Tha Phae; dishes 60-100B) Eat like an elephant at this vegetarian restaurant benefiting the Elephant Nature Park ( Click here).
Just Khao Soy ( Map; 0 5381 8641; 108/2 Th Charoen Prathet; dishes 100B) This is the gourmet version of kôw soy. Served on a wooden artist’s palette you can create your own noodle broth with several condiments, including coconut milk to thicken it at will. Two different noodle shapes are offered: Chiang Mai style and Mae Salong style.
* * *
THE LEGAL STIMULANT: CHIANG MAI’S CAFE CULTURE
Chiang Mai’s creative and sociable temperament has eagerly adopted the global phenomenon of cafe culture, largely supplied by local coffee chains and home-grown Arabica beans. The proliferation of these coffee dens has been a boon