Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [263]
Adorn with Studio Naenna ( Map; 0 5389 5136; 22 Soi 1, Th Nimmanhaemin) The pensive colours of the mountains have been woven into these naturally dyed silks and cottons, part of a village weaving project pioneered by Patricia Cheeseman, an expert and author on Thai-Lao textiles. This is the in-town shop, but you can see the production process at the studio (below).
Studio Naenna ( Map; 0 5322 6042; www.studio-naenna.com; 138/8 Soi Chang Khian, Th Huay Kaew) If you liked what you saw at Adorn with Studio Naenna, then head out of town to the main gallery of this textile cooperative.
Shinawatra ( Map; 0 5322 1638; www.shinawatrathaisilk.co.th; 16 Th Huay Kaew) This venerable family-owned silk shop was already a household name before the owners’ nephew, Thaksin Shinawatra, became the controversial prime minister. The colours and styles are a little dowdy for foreign tastes, but reconsider their selection should you happen to be elected mayor of Chiang Mai.
Classic Model ( Map; 0 5321 6810; 95/22 Th Nimmanhaemin) Bold geometric patterns define this clothing brand from fashion designer Sumate Phunkaew, a native of Nan Province. Certainly, the boy-from-the-province success story is heartwarming, but the clothes have a high frump factor. If you flip through the racks with enough concentration though you might find some suitable ‘teacher’ wear.
Koland ( Map; 0 5321 4715; Soi 1, Th Nimmanhaemin) The hippest store on the block sells a mix of locally made ceramics and kitsch art from China.
Kachama ( Map; 0 5321 8495; www.kachama.com; Soi 1, Th Nimmanhaemin) If you’re planning on hanging textiles instead of wearing them, visit this upmarket textile studio featuring the artist’s traditionally inspired weavings.
Gongdee Gallery ( Map; 0 5322 2230; 30 Soi 1, Th Nimmanhaemin) With one of the largest showrooms on the block, Gongdee is the soi’s primary incubator for young artistic talent. There’s a mix of home decor, furniture and paintings. Keep an eye out for the Byzantine icon–like Buddhas and altars painted by Chiang Mai artist Barinya.
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COMMERCE AFTER DARK
Chiang Mai Night Bazaar ( Map; Th Chang Khlan; 7pm-midnight) is one of the city’s main night-time attractions, especially for families, and is the modern legacy of the original Yunnanese trading caravans that stopped here along the ancient trade route between Simao (in China) and Mawlamyaing (on Myanmar’s Gulf of Martaban coast). Today the night bazaar sells the usual tourist souvenirs, like what you’ll find at Bangkok’s street markets. In true market fashion, vendors form a gauntlet along the footpath of Th Chang Khlan from Th Tha Phae to Th Loi Kroh. In between are dedicated shopping buildings: the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar Building is filled mainly with antique and handicraft stores. Across the street is the Galare Night Bazaar selling upmarket clothes and home decor. Behind the collection of shops is the Galare Food Centre ( Click here). The Anusan Market is less claustrophobic and filled with tables of vendors selling knitted caps, carved soaps and other cottage-industry goods. Deeper into the market is the Anusan Food Centre ( Click here). The quality and bargains aren’t especially impressive, but the allure is the variety and concentration of stuff and the dexterity and patience it takes to trawl through it all.
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SHOPPING FOR A CAUSE
Chiang Mai is Thailand’s conscience in part because the city is the de facto caretaker of struggling immigrants from Burma and hill-tribe villagers who lack the proper citizenship to get an education, good paying jobs and medical care. This close proximity to poverty prods the average resident out of complacency and into action, resulting