Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [265]
Bus
Chiang Mai’s long-distance terminal is known as Arcade Bus Terminal ( Map; 0 5324 2664; Th Kaew Nawarat) and is about 3km from the old city. From the town centre, a túk-túk or chartered srng·ta·ou should cost 40B to 60B.
From Chiang Mai’s Arcade bus terminal, Bangkok-bound buses leave about every hour between 7am to 10.30am and again between 7pm to 9pm. Green Bus Thailand is the biggest company at the Arcade terminal; it serves Chiang Rai with hourly departures from 7am to 4pm. Mae Sai, Mae Sot and Chiang Saen buses leave twice a day. Other routes include Phayao to Chiang Khong with frequent departures between 6.30am to 5.30pm; Lampang, Phrae and Nan with hourly departures between 6.30am to 6.30pm.
The ticket counters that serve Pai, Mae Hong Son and Mae Sariang are beyond the main terminal. For Udon Thani there are five departures from noon to 8pm.
Do note that from Bangkok, the most reliable companies use Bangkok’s Northern and Northeastern bus terminal (Mo Chit). It is not advisable to go north with a bus company that leaves from Bangkok’s tourist centres, like Th Khao San. These invariably over-promise and under-deliver. The most egregious example occurred in November 2008 when the driver and staff of a Bangkok–Chiang Mai bus contracted by a Khao San Rd travel agent stole up to 150,000B worth of valuables from the passengers and then abandoned the bus and the riders outside of Ayuthaya.
For buses to destinations within Chiang Mai Province, use the Chang Pheuak Bus Terminal ( Map; 0 5321 1586; Th Chang Pheuak), which is north of the old city. You should be able to get a srng·ta·ou to Chang Pheuak terminal for 20B. Destinations served by the Chang Pheuak terminal include Chiang Dao (50B, 1½ hours, every 30 minutes), Chom Thong (41B, two hours, every 20 minutes), Fang (105B, three hours, every 30 minutes), Hang Dong (15B, 30 minutes, every 20 minutes) and Tha Ton (115B, every two hours, four hours).
There is also a srng·ta·ou stop on Th Praisani between Talat Warorot and Mae Ping serving nearby towns, like Lamphun, Bo Sang, San Kamphaeng and Mae Rim. Srng·ta·ou and buses also park on the east side of the river near Saphan Lek and make the trip to Lamphun, Lampang and Chiang Rai (via an older and slower road).
Train
Chiang Mai’s train station ( Map; 0 5324 5364, 0 5324 7462; Th Charoen Muang) is about 2.5km east of the old city. The train station has an ATM, a left-luggage room (10B per piece) and an advance-booking counter at the regular ticket window (open 24 hours). For information on schedules and fares contact the station or the State Railway of Thailand (free hotline 1690; www.railway.co.th; 24 hr).
All Chiang Mai–bound trains originate from Bangkok’s Hualamphong station. At the time of writing there were six daily departures from Bangkok to Chiang Mai (and the same number in the opposite direction) and the journey took between 12 and 15 hours. Note in the fares below that we’ve indicated seats in air-con cars; if there is no designation this means that the seats are in fan-cooled cars.
Rapid trains leave Bangkok at 2.30pm arriving at 5.10am the next day. Fares are 391/231B for 2nd-/3rd-class seats and 541/491B for lower/upper sleeping berths in the 2nd-class cars.
Express trains leave Bangkok at 10pm and arrive in Chiang Mai at 12.45pm the following afternoon. Fares are 431/271B for 2nd-/3rd-class seats, 541B for 2nd-class air-con seats, 581/531B for lower/upper sleeping berths in 2nd-class cars, and 821/751B for lower/upper sleeping berths for a 2nd-class air-con cars.
Sprinter (special express diesel) trains leave Bangkok at 8.30am and 7.20pm arriving in Chiang Mai at 8.30pm and 7.40am, respectively. Fares are 611B for 2nd-class air-con seat.
Special Express trains leave at 6pm and 7.20pm, arriving the next day at 7.15am and 9.45am. Fares are 1253B for a 1st-class air-con sleeper and 881/791B for lower/upper 2nd-class air-con sleeper.
Trains from Chiang Mai to Bangkok