Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [267]
Most agencies offer motorcycle insurance for around 50B a day; ask what this insurance coverage actually includes. Some policies will cover free repairs if the bike breaks down, but will charge a 1500B excess in case of accident and a 10,000B excess if the motorbike is stolen.
If you’re renting a motorcycle for touring the countryside around Chiang Mai, check out the tips and routes at Golden Triangle Rider (www.gt-rider.com).
Among the more established and more reliable outlets:
Dang Bike Hire ( Map; 0 5327 1524; 23 Th Kotchasan)
Mr Mechanic ( Map; 0 5321 4708; 4 Soi 5, Th Moon Muang) There are also two other branches in the old city.
Pop Rent-A-Car ( Map; 0 5327 6014; Th Kotchasan, near Soi 2)
Tony’s Big Bikes ( Map; 0 5320 7124; 17 Th Rachamankha) Rents well-maintained 125cc to 400cc motorbikes that all have license plates. Also offers riding lessons, can give touring advice and repairs motorcycles.
Metered Taxi
Fares start at 40B for the first 2km, plus 5B for each additional kilometre. However, it is very rare to see a metered taxi to flag down in Chiang Mai. Call Taxi Meter (0 5327 1242/9291) for a pick-up.
Srng·ta·ou, Túk-Túk & Shm·lór
Chiang Mai residents who don’t have their own wheels rely on the red srng·ta·ou (also called ‘rót daang’) or túk-túk.
The srng·ta·ou are shared taxis: you can flag them down, tell them your destination and if they are going that way they’ll nod. If they shake their heads, it is because they aren’t going in that direction. Along the way they might pick up other passengers if the stops are en route. Short trips should cost 20B per person and longer trips should cost 40B per person. A ride from Pratu Tha Phae to the night bazaar should be 20B, while a ride from Wat Phra Singh to the night bazaar should be 40B. By and large you hopefully shouldn’t have a problem with srng·ta·ou drivers being too greedy about fares. Most quote honest prices and it seems to be something of a tradition for the drivers to scoot around town in the evenings and on weekends with their wives in the front seat for company.
Túk-túks work only on a charter basis and are about 20B per trip more expensive than srng·ta·ou. We felt lucky when we could get a fare for 40B to 60B. In entertainment areas at night most túk-túk drivers will ask for an optimistic 100B.
Chiang Mai still has a few shm·lór (pedicabs), typically parked at Talat Warorot. Shm·lór cost around 20B to 30B for most trips.
NORTHERN CHIANG MAI PROVINCE
North of Chiang Mai the province becomes mountainous and rugged as it bumps against Myanmar’s frontier. Among the highlights are the beautiful Mae Sa Valley and the forested peaks around Chiang Dao.
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MAE SA VALLEY & SAMOENG
One of the easiest mountain escapes, the Mae Sa–Samoeng loop travels from the lowland’s concrete expanse into the highlands’ forested frontier. The 100km route makes a good day trip with private transport or a country getaway with an overnight in Samoeng. Golden Triangle Rider (www.gt-rider.com) publishes a detailed map of the area.
Head north of Chiang Mai on Rte 107 (Th Chang Pheuak) toward Mae Rim, then left onto Rte 1096. The road becomes more rural but there’s a steady supply of tour-bus attractions: orchid farms, butterfly parks, snake farms, you name it.
Only 6km from the Mae Rim turn-off, Nam Tok Mae Sa (entrance adult/child 100/50B) is part of the Doi Suthep-Pui National Park. The cascade is a picturesque spot to picnic or tramp around in the woods for a bit and it is a favourite weekend getaway for locals.
The road starts to climb and twist after the waterfall entrance. Catch your breath at the Maesa Elephant Camp (0 5320 6247; www.maesaelephantcamp.com; Rte 1096; admission adult/child 120/80B), one of the route’s better elephant attractions where the animals seem happy and treated well. One hour shows (8am and 9.40am daily, plus 1.30pm during high season) feature the usual circus-like antics. If you arrive between shows, you can hang out on the pretty grounds, feeding the elephants